Bear Cuisine

Asian Braised Pork Belly

This version of braised pork belly is from Takashi's Noodles, an excellent source for a variety of Asian noodle recipes. Even though I've written about other braised pork belly recipes, I'm including this one because of its versatility and multiplicity of uses. As the chef says in his introduction to this recipe, "...this dish is ...fundamental to ramen noodle cooking. Sliced, it's a classic topping for ramen noodles. And the braising liquid has many uses. You flavor ramen broth with it; simmer banboo shoots in it, a classic garnish and even cook hard-boilded eggs in this liquid, which are then sliced in half and added to a bowl of noodles. "

BRAISED PORK BELLY

(serves 4)

Pork Belly

1. 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
2. 8 ounces pork belly
3. 4 cups cold water
4. 1/2 cup sake
5. 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed

BRAISING LIQUID

1. 1 1/2 cups cold water
2. 1 cup Japanese soy sauce
3. 3/4 cup sugar
4. 1 piece star anise
5. 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
6. 1 cinnamon stick
7. 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed

GARNISHES

1. 1/4 head iceberg lettuce
2. 1/4 cucumber, thinly sliced on a diagonal

SAUCE

1. 1/2 cup chilled braising liquid
   
2. 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
3. 1 teaspoons cold water
4. 1 teaspoon cornstarch

MUSTARD SAUCE

1. 2 teaspoons mustard powder
2. 2 teaspoons water

4 steamed buns available at Asian and Chinese groceries) defrosted and halved

To prepare the pork belly, place an 11-inch saute pan over high heat. Add the vegetable oil and heat until the oil just begins to smoke. Using the tongs, carefully place the fatty side of the pork belly in the pan and cook until it turns golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn the pork belly over and repeat on the other sides until nicely browned all over. Decrease the heat if the oil begins to smoke again.

In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the seared pork belly, the cold water, sake, and smashed ginger. Place over high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil, then decrease the heat; simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes.

To make the braising liquid, combine all the ingredients in a 4-quart saucepan.

Drain the pork belly and discard the liquid, then add the pork belly to the braising liquid in the saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cover. Braise for 1 1/2 hours, or until the pork belly is very tender.

Transfer the pork belly and braising liquid to a container and refrigerate, unvoered, until cool, then cover and chill overnight.

The next day, assemble a steamer on the stove top. Fill the bottom with water, cover, and set over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium once the water comes to a boil.

To prepare the garnishes, discard the outer leaves of the iceberg lettuce. Place 3 large leaves in a bowl of cold water along with the cucumber slices for 10 minutes. Set aside (This helps the vegetables keep their freshness and crispness)

To make the sauce, combine 1/2 cup of the chilled braising liquid and the hoisin sauce in a small saucepan and set over high heat. In a bowl, mix the water and cornstarch until smooth. When the sauce just begins to boil, whisk in the cornstarch and cook briefly, just until the sauce begins to thicken. Make sure that it doesn't thicken too much--the sauce should run in a steady stream when poured. Set aside.

To make the mustard sauce, mix the mustard powder and water in a small bowl. Set aside.

Remove the pork belly from the remaining  braising liquid and cut into 8 slices, each 1/4-inch thick.* Place the slices in a single layer side by side with the halved buns on a plate small enough to fit in the steamer. (Don't put the buns directly on the steamer because they will stick to it). If you have a large steamer you can do this in one batch if your steamer is smaller just steam the pork belly and buns in several batches. Set the plate in the steamer, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft and heated through.

While the pork belly and buns are steaming, finish preparing the garnishes by draining the lettuce and cucumber and patting dry with a towel. Cut the lettuce into pieces the size of the steamed buns and stack in 4 small piles. Top each pile with 2 slices of the cucumber.

To serve,assemble a braised pork sandwich by placing the lettuce, cucumber and 2 slices of pork belly on half of a bun. Drizzle the sauce over the meat and top with the other half of the bun. Serve the mustard on the side. Repeat for the remaining 3 buns.

*Any leftover bork belly and the braising liquid can be frozen for up to 2 month. The braising liquid can be used in Ramen broth and the pork belly can be used as a garnish for various ramens or for fried rice.

Souffled Potato Gnocchi

This recipe is a delightful variation of gnocchi. You might want to save it for winter when you won't mind heating up the oven, but it is delicious anytime of year. A great and different side for a roast chicken.

SOUFFLED POTATO GNOCCHI

1. 1/2 cup milk
2. 3/4 stick unsalted butter
3. 1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4. 3 large eggs
5. 1 pound Yukon gold or Russet potatoes cut into large chunks
6. 1/4 cup minced fresh Italian parsley
7. 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a saucepan cover the potatoes with 2 inches of salted water, bring the water to a boil and simmer the potatoes, covered until they are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and let the potatoes cool until they can be handled. Peel, then force them through the fine holes of a ricer or food mill into a large bowl.

In a small heavy saucepan combine the milk and 1/2 stick of the butter. Bring the milk to a boil and add the flour whisking until the mixture cleans the sides of the pan.

Cook the mixture over moderately low heat, whisking for 1 minute and remove the pan from the heat. Beat in the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Let cool until warm, stirring occasionally.

With an electric mixer, beat the egg mixture into the riced potatoes until well combined. Stir in the minced parsley and salt and pepper and transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a large tip. Pile mounds into a buttered 1 1/2 quart gratin dish, sprinkle top with the grated Parmigiano and dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.

Bake the gnocchi in a preheated 400 degree F oven for 30-35 minutes or until puffed and golden.

Serves 4.

(recipe courtesy of Christine Hickman)

Brunswick Stew

Brunswick Stew is one of those dishes about which there is great debate. People argue about its origins and its ingredients. Two states claim to be its original home. In Brunswick, Virginia there is a historical marker which says that the stew was invented by Jimmy Matthews in 1828. Matthews was an African-American cook who is supposed to have made the first batch for a hunting party given by his owner, Dr. Creed Haskins.

Brunswick, Georgia says that it is home to the first concoction of the stew and every year they sponsor a Brunswick Stew contest between the Virginians and the Georgians. The Lee Brothers conclude their mini essay on the subject by saying,"We should note that the current Brunswick Stew world champion, Henry Hicks, a tobacco farmer from Alberta, Virginia, claims tutelage from Theo Matthews, the great-grandson of Jimmy Matthews. With all due respect to Georgia stewmasters, we think the Virginians tell a more convincing tale." (The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook)

Early recipes called for squirrel, but modern adaptations use rabbit as substitute for the long-tailed rodents. My favorite recipe for this stew uses neither of these,but limits itself to chicken. This version is adapted from Martha Phelps Stamps and is very close to a recipe from a Virginia cook that I used to have, but can no longer find.  Everyone who has ever tasted it says that "It's the best." While I doubt that claim, it is mighty tasty.

BRUNSWICK STEW

(serves 10)

1. 1 chicken
2. 2 onions, halved
3. 3 ribs celery, roughly chopped
4. 2 carrots, roughly chopped
5.   Water to cover
6. 2 bay leaves
7. 4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
8. 4 sprigs parsley
9. 2 teaspoons salt
10. 1 teaspoon white pepper
11. 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
12. 4 slices of bacon cut into small pieces
13. 1 large onion chopped
14. 6 garlic cloves, minced
15. 1 bell pepper, chopped
16. 1 28-ounce can tomatoes
17. 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
18. 2 cups (or more if needed) chicken broth
19. kernels from 2 ears of corn
20. 1 1/2 cups baby lima beans
21. 2 teaspoons salt
22. 1 teaspoon black pepper
23. 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
24. 1 bay leaf
25. 1 teaspoon thyme leaves
26. 1 teaspoon dried basil
27. 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Rinse the chicken and remove the giblets. Place in a pot with the onions, celery and carrots and cover with cold water. Bring a boil along with the seasoning. Reduce the heat to simmer and cook about 40 minutes until tender. Remove the chicken and let cool. Strain the stock and set aside.

Remove the skin from the chicken and pull the meat from the bones. Cool until ready to use.

Fry the bacon in a Dutch oven or other large,heavy pot. Remove the bacon and cook the onion in bacon fat for about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, pepper and cook on high heat for about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and vinegar and cook on high heat about 10 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining ingredients. Add more stock if necessary and adjust the seasoning. Cook until the vegetables are very tender and liquid is slightly thickened.

Stir in the chicken and heat through. Tatse again for seasoning.

You can serve this over rice or as is.

Mango Chutney

 Red Mangoes

 

Canning season began with  (at least for me) an unusual fruit. The mangoes in the market looked especially appealing this spring and I remembered of all those disappointing jars of store-bought mango chutneys that I have sampled over the years. "Surely," I thought to myself, " I could do a bit better than those. It's worth a try."  So, try I did.

Thane Prince offered an easy recipe in her Jellies, Jams and Chutneys. Preserving the Harvest.

MANGO CHUTNEY

(makes about 4 1/2 pounds)

1. 1 1/2 pounds mixed dried fruits (such as apricots, figs, dates, peaches and dark raisins)
2. 3 pounds mangoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
3. 1 1/2 pounds light brown or muscovado sugar
4. 2 large onions, chopped
5. 6 plump garlic cloves,chopped
6. 2 ounces fresh ginger, peeled and grated
7. 1-2 dried red chiles, crushed
8. 1 tablespoon salt
9. 4 cups cider or distilled malt vinegar

Cut any of the larger dried fruit into 1/2-inch pieces

Transfer all of the dried fruit to a large heavy nonreactive pot and stir in the remaining ingredients

Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes or until the chutney is thick, stirring occasionally to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pan.

Ladle the hot chutney into jars and process in a water bath for 30 minutes. (If you are  6000 feet above sea level, add 15 minutes to the processing time.)

This makes a rather tart chutney. So, if you like yours a bit sweeter feel free to add a bit more sugar.

Yes, I did think it better than those commercial products.

Soba Noodles with Asian Clam Sauce

Back home , but still loving those Asian tastes that were so satisifying in San Francisco. Soba noodles are made with buckwheat and are much lighter than their Italian cousins. The Japanese customarily eat them cold, but they are delicious hot. If you have leftovers, the noodles are great the next day served cold as part of a salad. This recipe is the creation of Sara Moulton and it is another easy-to-prepare weeknight supper.

SOBA NOODLES WITH ASIAN CLAM SAUCE

(serves 4)

1. 3 pounds littleneck clams
2. 4 medium scallions
3. one 1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger
4. 8 ounces soba noodles
5. 1 pound bok choy or napa cabbage
6. 1/4 cup fresh cilantro sprigs
7. 1/4 cup vegetable oil
8. 2 garlic cloves
9. 1/3 cup dry white wine
10. Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a very large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Scrub the clams, discarding any that won't close.

Trim and chop both the white and green parts of the scallions, keeping them separate. Peel and Microplane grate the ginger (about 1 1/2 teaspoons).

When the water has come to a boil, add the noodles and cook following the package directions. Drain and rinse well;set aside.

Meanwhile, trim and thinly slice the bok choy (4 generous cups). Chop the cilantro (about 2 tablespoons).

Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped white parts of the scallions and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Add the ginger and press the garlic (about 2 teaspoons) into the pan; cook for 1 minute more.

Add the clams and white wine to the pan; turn the heat up to high.Cover the pan and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the clams open; transfer the clams to a bowl as they open. Discard any clams that won't open after 6 to 8 minutes.

Add the bok choy to the saucepan; cover the pan and steam for 2 minutes or until the bok choy has wilted. Add the noodles, clams in their shells, chopped green parts of the scallions, the cilantro, and salt and pepper to taste; cook just until hot. Serve in 4 pasta bowls.