It's a bit early for green tomatoes, but t last Saturday's market one of the growers had some beautiful ones. I couldn't resist and bought enough to make Chow Chow and some extra for frying. Fried Green tomatoes are one of my favorite things in the food world and they could not be simpler to cook.
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES
Cut the tomato into thick slices and soak in buttermilk for 30 minutes to an hour.
Mix some corn flour with salt and pepper.
Dredge the tomatoes in the corn flour mixture. (I use corn flour rather corn meal because it gives a lighter texture to the coating. If, however, corn meal is what you have, use it. You will still have a delicious dish)
Place into the heated cooking oil (about 350 degrees).
Cook on both sides. Drain on paper towels Serve warm.
Voila!
These particular tomatoes were absolutely ambrosial. I attribute that to cooking them in duck fat which for some reason unknown to me lifts everything cooked in it from just good to fabulous. And , for once, the frying was just right.
Silly Americans! We are afraid of a little fat, but will eat processed foods (which are far worse) with scarcely any thought at all. Still, frying is not a much-taught skill in our country and it can be difficult to do it well.
As I was thinking about the steps in frying food, I thought of Shirley Corriher's Cookwise. This is a beautiful book that explains the principles behind standard cooking practices and answers the cook's questions about why something hasn't turned out as expected. I find her more accessible than Harold McGee (On Food and Cooking) and she includes recipes that illustrate her explanations. A cook's cook!
Here is her succinct summary of the principles of successful pan frying.
A heavy pan is a must
Use a heavy pan that conducts heat well, such as a heavy aluminum pan or an iron skillet.
The level of fat: don't skimp
The fat should come about halfway up the side of the food so that the food has a little buoyancy. With less fat, the food will rest heavily on the bottom of the pan during the entire cooking time, and it can burn more easily that if it just touches the bottom lightly as it partially floats.
Fat: purity
You can be sure of fresh oil by buying in small quantities and storing the unused oil tightly closed in a cool,dark place. Do not reuse oil.
The all-important seasoning
Season each element of the dish--the food, the flour, and the breading--so that every bite you take will be seasoned. Your seasoning can be salt, pepper, cayenne, herbs, spices--whatever flavors you have selected for the dish.
Breading or batters
The breading should be appropriate for the thickness of the food. A very thin, delicate fish fillet should have a light, delicate coating . Thicker, heavier food can have a heavier coating--flour, egg or milk wash, and crumbs or a batter coating.
First side to fry
The first side that you fry will be the most attractive. Fry the presentation side first. For a fish fillet, this would be the rib side, not the skin side.
Turning during frying
Food should be turned only once during pan-frying. When you are frying the first side and you see little bubble of moisture popping through the breading on the top side, you should have turned the food a second before. I know this is liking saying"If you get to the corner, you've gone too far!" Still, the split second you see a bubble, turn the food.
Finishing in the oven
For a very crisp coating, finish frying in a hot oven. Turn a fish fillet, give the pan a few seconds on the heat, then place the pan in a hot oven. This keeps the top hot and crisp while the bottom side is still frying.
I would add to these guidelines that it is important to keep the temperature constant and high enough to cook the food quickly so grease doesn't soak into your breading or batter. Finally, don't crowd the pan.
Green Tomatoes cooking in bubbling duck fat
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