Dooky Chase's is a venerable institution in the African-American community in New Orleans. It began in 1941 as a sandwich shop owned and run by Emily Chase, Leah Chase's mother-in-law. Leah had worked in French Quarter restaurants and brought to Dooky's a bit of that more sophisticated sensibility. Gradually, she changed the menu and over the years Dooky Chase's has evolved into one of the one of the most respected restaurants in New Orleans.
Luminaries such as Ray Charles, Louis Armstrong, Nat 'King' Cole, Lena Horne, Sarah Vaughan and Thurgood Marshall have all made this restaurant their home away from home. Now, it has even entertained the president of the United States.
Barack Obama gets ready to tuck into a bowl of Creole Gumbo
We had the privilege of meeting Leah Chase in 2004 when the Southern Foodways Alliance , based in Oxford, MS., awarded her a life-time achievement award. Never was an honor more deserved. Not only is Ms. Chase a distinguished chef and restaurateur, she is also a hard-working member of her community who has never hesitated to offer a helping hand to anyone who needed it. She firmly believes and acts on her belief that we are here to help each other, to do whatever we can to leave this world better than it was when we came into it. Leah Chase is a great lady, one of those people whose presence lights up a room. You feel better about yourself and life just by being around her. That her food is so good is almost incidental. Almost, but not quite.
The restaurant's interior is elegant, filled with an amazing collection of African-American art. We arrived just as the place opened for lunch and for a little while had the place to ourselves. In those few minutes, I walked around looking at the art. Such artistry feeds the soul and I was as happy to be looking at those pictures as I was , a bit later, eating lunch. Fortunately, the collection wasn't damaged by Katrina and the looting that took place didn't touch the art.
Our waiter, Chase Kamata, is Leah's grand daughter and is learning about front-of-the-house work so that she can support herself whenever her musical theatre career isn't bringing in a paycheck. If she is half as good on the stage as she is as a server, she should be at the top of the charts in no time. Like her grandmother, she is gracious, warm, and welcoming.
Chase Kamata and Leah Chase
Now about lunch. We started with Creole Gumbo which Chase highly recommended. She grew up in California and when Leah would send some of the gumbo to them, she could hardly wait for it to thaw. She would stand there salivating until she could actually taste it again. Of all the gumbos we had in New Orleans on this trip, this was the best. Roux rich and filled with okra, shrimp,chicken and sausage. If I had grown up with this food, I'm not sure I could ever have moved away from its source.
Creole Gumbo
Kay ordered Red Beans with sausage and I, Chicken Creole. Both were absolutely delicious. The beans were creamy and the sausage deeply flavored with smoke and spice. The Chicken Creole was a delicate combination of chicken, shrimp and okra served over rice. Both of these are homey dishes that nourish body and spirit.
Chicken Creole
Peach Cobbler provided the finishing touch to this satisfying meal.
Leah Chase and her restaurant are national treasures.
Dooky Chase
2301 Orleans Avenue (Miro St.)
504-821-0600
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