When I lived in Pennsylvania, I was an hour outside of Philadelphia. Work was compelling enough that I didn't get into the city that often. But when the cold, damp air of fall and approaching winter set in, the lure of big-city lights was irresistible. Then on a Friday early in December, I would set out for Chestnut Hill in Phuladelphia to do Christmas shopping and revel in the warmth of McNally's Tavern.
McNally's has been in the same location for 90 years this year and when I walked into the place on my latest trip east, it hadn't changed one bit. Our waitress informed us that nothing had changed at McNally's in 90 years except the staff. That is probably a bit of hyperbole, but it does have a quality of timelessness that one (at least this one) can't help but love. Somehow, there is a sense of safety in such places. Complete strangers feel a sense of fellowship as they indulge their shared love of a pint of stout and one of the city's great sandwiches--The Schmitter. The stock market is plunging south and heartless corporate CEO's are gutting the economy, but for the moment all is right with the world in this small haven of cheer.
THE SCHMITTER
Here is Saveur's version of this Philadelphia favorite.
The Schmitter
(makes one sandwich)
- 1/4 cup mayonnaise
- 1 1/2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish
- 1 tablespoon ketchup
- 1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 4 ounces thinly sliced roast beef
- 4 thin slices yellow onion
- 2 ounces cooked salami
- 3 slices white American cheese
- 2 5/8"-thick slices tomato
- 1 4" inch kaiser roll
Make the Schmitter sauce:Whisk together the mayonnaise, relish, ketchup and Worchestershire in a small bowl. Set aside.
Heat the butter in a 10" skillet over medium heat. Add roast beef, stacked together on one side of the skillet and onion slices, loosely stacked together on the opposite side. Cook until the roast beef begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Flip beef stack and cook until browned on the other side, about 1 minute. Flip onion slices, and, using a metal spatula, transfer beef on top of onions, allowing the meat to continue to cook. Place salami, stacked together, on the opposite side side of the skillet, and top with 1 cheese slice and all the tomato. Cook until the salami is browned on the bottom and the cheese begins to melt, about 2 minutes.
Meanwhile, split roll and place cut sides up on a baking sheet. Top each side with 1 cheese slice, and broil until the cheese is melted and roll is toasted, about 30 seconds. Flip salami over and on top of beef and onions then transfer entire stack to bottom roll. Top with Schmitter sauce and cover with roll top.
Serve with a pint of Guinness and feel yourself in Irish-American heaven.
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