Thanksgiving Sides

Thanksgiving dinner is always a challenge. Not so much because of work required to put it together. It's all the expectations and memories that folks have around this holiday. There are always food memories. For most people they are pleasant associations, but for some holiday family meals are anything but festive. So, the cook is challenged in at least two ways--honoring the traditions that are dear to your guests and creating a meal that will not evoke unpleasant memories for the holiday-fearers. It's a tricky passage to negotiate.

What to serve with the turkey is usually where the difficulties arise. "It's not thanksgiving without Green Bean Casserole"( or mashed potatoes or cornbread dressing or..... you can fill in the blank with your favorite). Or "I can't stand brussels sprouts or creamed onions "( or.... fill in the blank with your most-loathed vegetable.) I think this is one reason that side dishes tend to proliferate at this meal. Cooks, by their very nature, want to please and they try to have something for everyone.

This year we had one of our tried and true favorites (Fennel Gratin) and a new dish (Caramelized Brussels Sprouts). I was worried about the brussels sprouts, but everyone loved them. Book mark these for next year's menu. You won't be sorry.

FENNEL GRATIN

(serves 6 to 8)

• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 6 fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut vertically into 1/4"-thick slices
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 cups thinly sliced yellow onions (about 3/4 pound)
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 1/2 cups finely grated Swiss cheese

Butter a 6"x9" gratin dish.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Bring 3 quarts of water, the lemon juice and a pinch of salt and pepper to a boil in a large nonreative saucepan. Lower the heat to medium and add the fennel slices. Blanch the fennel for 8 minutes or until just tender. Use care not to break the slices. Drain. Places the slices on paper towels to absorb any excess liquid.

Heat the butter in a large heavy-bottomed saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and gently saute them, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place the onions in the bottom of the gratin dish.

Bring the cream to a simmer in a medium saucepan and season it with salt and pepper. While it is heating pick through the blanched fennel slices and reserve the nicest of the tulip-shaped ones for the top layer of the gratin. Remove and discard the cores from the remaining slices. Roughly chop the remaining slices and distribute them over the onions. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the chopped fennel. Neatly place the reserved tulip-shaped slices of fennel on top of the cheese and pour the hot cream over them. Top with the remaining cheese.

Bake the gratin in the preheated oven for about 55 minutes or until the fennel is tender and the top is nicely browned. Pay attention because this dish can quickly overbrown.

You can make this in the morning and cook later.

(From Louis Osteen)

CARAMELIZED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH SHERRY-DIJON VINAIGRETTE

(serves 4 to 6)

1. Kosher Salt
2. 2 pounds Brussels sprouts, halved
3. 8 ounces smoked bacon, cut into 1" pieces
4. 1 medium yellow onion, julienned
5. 2 tablespoons butter
6. 2 green apples, peeled and sliced
7. 3 fresh thyme sprigs
8. Freshly ground black pepper
9. Sherry-Dijon Vinaigrette

Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Salt the water so it tastes like seawater. Separately, create an ice bath by filling a large bowl or casserole dish with equal amounts of cold water and ice.

Add the brussels sprouts to the boiling water. Cook until tender, but not too long or they will lose their bright green color. Remove the sprouts from the water and shock them in the ice bath. Leave the brussels sprouts in the ice bath until they are cool, then remove them from the ice bath and reserve for later use.

In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, add the bacon pieces and cook until the fat renders and the bacon crisps, about 7 minutes. Add the onions to the pan and cook until softened, another 5 minutes. Add the butter, allow it to melt and then add the apple slices and thyme sprigs. Toss to coat, cooking another minute or 2. Add the blanched brussels sprouts. Season with salt and pepper, and cook until the sprouts are golden brown, another 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the thyme sprigs and discard. Drizzle half the vinaigrette onto the sprouts and toss. Serve the remaining vinaigreet alongside the sprouts.

Sherry-Dijon Vinaigrette

1. 8 1/2 ounces vegetable oil
2. 6 ounces extra-virgin olive oil
3. 3 1/2 ounces sherry vinegar
4. 2 tablespoons dijon mustard
5. Salt and freshly ground pepper

Put all the ingredients, except salt and pepper, in the blender and mix well.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

(from the Voltaggio Brothers)