We are fortunate that so many wonderful cooks and chefs come to Las Cosas in Santa Fe. Recently we had the privilage of a class with Chef Geeta of the Hush Supper Club in Washington, D.C. The first thing she tells you about herself is that she is not a chef, but she was taught to cook by her mother and has thoroughly absorbed the principles of the cuisine of her family's native Gujarat. That is the second thing she tells you , that her family is from this region of India. Gujarat is a bit north of Bombay, now called Mumbai, and the modern state was created in 1960. The third thing she tells you is that she is a Jain.
Jainism is one of thee ancient religions of India; the other two are Hinduism and Buddhism. The core principle in Jainism is a complete commitment to non-violence(ahimsa) toward all living things. Thoughts of violence as well as overt acts are to be avoided and an attitude of respect towards other beliefs and viewpoints is to be cultivated. Jains believe that there are a multiplicity of truths. They work to see issues and situations from different viewpoints which leads to increased understanding and toleration of conflicting views. (As an aside, it seems to me that the Jains have much to teach us about how we might conduct our public debates.)
Culinarily, Jains are vegetarians and avoid eating root vegetables since the plant is killed in harvesting.So, there are no potatoes, garlic, onions, carrots, radishes or turnips in their cooking.They will,however, eat turmeric and ginger since these plants are rhizomes and are not killed in harvesting.
Jain cooks make up for the lack of onions and garlic by using specific spices which provide the sulfurous character that we associate with onions. One of the major spices used in Jain cooking is asafetida (hing). Th spice cames in four main forms:tears, blocks, pieces and powder. The powder is the easiest from to used and is readily available in Indian and international groceries. It smells like sulfur in its raw form, but calms down considerably in cooking. Adding it to food , especially the legumes which are so prevalent in this cuisine reduces flatulence.
Another spice that is used often is ajwain or Bishop's weed. It is a close relative of cumin and its seeds taste hot and bitter. Ajwain is often used in Indian snacks to give them some added punch.
Chef Geeta's spice box. Just as colors in a painters palette are essential to a painting, these spices provide the color for our palates in cooking.
Black salt is also used. From The Spice and Herb Bible,"Black salt is true rock salt... which is usually ground into a fine pink powder.... Black salt has a particularly sulphurous aroma, much of which dissapates during cooking, is in my opinion the best salt for seasoning any Indian recipes. Black salt complements seafood and combines well with asafedtida, cumin, garam masala and amchur powder in that deliciously spiced salt blend, chaat masala."
Cardamon is another much-used spice. It comes in green and black varieties with green being the more prized variety. Whole cardamom seeds have a sweet flavor. When they are crushed they release a camphorous odor and the taste is bittersweet. Throughout India cardamom flavors both savories and desserts.
One of the most valuable tips I learned was how to judge the ripeness of a mango. Always when you find them in the grocery stores in North America, they are rock hard. I learned this evening that most often I had not let them ripen enough before using them. Put them in a paper bag for 5 to 10 days until they perfume your entire house with their sweet floral aroma.
The skin of a perfectly ripened mango should be wrinkled and have changed to a deep golden color.
Another very important tip for all who aspire to cook Indian food is how to infuse the spices. You must heat them in the oil or butter so that their flavor will permeate the dish. Some cookbooks refer to this as blooming the spices. Whatever you call it, this is a most important step in all Indian cuisine.
Maiko no Chino (spicy creamed corn),Green Beans with Ajwain and Cucumber and Mint Raita
The Green Beans with Ajwain were very easy to prepare and perfectly seasoned. I could have made a meal out of this dish alone.
(serves 4 to 6)
- 1 pound green beans, stemmed and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces
- 2 tablespoons grapeseed or similar high heat oil
- 2 teaspoons ajwain seeds
- 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
- 1/4 teaspoon asafetida
- 1/2 cup raw peanuts
- 4-6 small green chilies, minced
- 1 teaspoon salt
Boil green beans for 5-7 minutes, or until slightly soft, but not too tender
In a medium skillet, heat oil for 1 minute on high heat
Once the oil is heated, add ajwain,turmeric, asafetida and 4 green chiles. Let cook for 1 minute, or until you can smell the spices infuse.
Turn down to medium heat and add peanuts. Stir and let cook for 2-3 minutes.
Add green beans and salt and cook for 5 minutes.
Add aditional green chilies if desired.
Turn heat to low, cover and cook for an additional 5-10 minutes, or until beans are tender.
Chef Geeta is extremely personable and engaging. I can easily imagine her to be the perfect host who will tell fascinating stories of her people and heritage while at the same time being totally attentive to her guests. A note for my friends who live in Washington, D.C., check out the Hush Supper Club and make a reservation. I don't think you will be disappointed.
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