Bear Cuisine

Cooking with Trey Corkern

Louisiana native and chef, Trey Corkern has taught two classes on Cajun and Creole Cuisine at Las Cosas in the past month. His cooking made me want to book the first available flight to the Big Easy. Since that isn't possible,these dishes will help to satisfy my cravings until my next trip to America's best food city.

 Trey Cockern

One of Chef Trey's gigs in new Orleans was at Mister B's Bistro in the French Quarter. Here he mastered BBQ Shrimp. It's an easy dish and makes a great, if messy, first course

BBQ SHRIMP

(2 servings)

1. 16  head-on jumbo shrimp (If you can't find head-on shrimp, use what is available in your area). Leave shells on the shrimp.
2. 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce
3. 2 TBS fresh lemon juice
4. 1 TBS cracked black pepper
5. 1 TBS ground black pepper
6. 1 TBS Magic Seasoning*
7. 1 TBS Fresh Chopped Garlic
8. 1 1/2 cups salted butter, cut into pats

Put a large skilled on high heat.

When it is smoking hot, add all the shrimp.

Add the rest of the ingredients except the butter

Turn shrimp when they are pink halfway up.

Cook another minute or two, until they start to curl.

Add the butter and shake the pan constantly, just until the sauce starts to bubble.

BBQ Shrimp after the butter has been added.

Serve with French bread.

 

Cook's Tips

 Add kosher salt to the water when defrosting shrimp. This helps to refresh their taste

Keep the butter cold until you add it to the pan. The shaking is essential to emulsifying the sauce. Stirring will prevent the sauce from forming properly.

 

*CAJUN MAGIC SEASONING MIX

1. 2 Tbs. paprika
2. 1 tsp. onion powder
3. 1 tsp. garlic powder
4. 1 tsp cayenne pepper
5. 1 tsp. smoked paprika
6. 1 tsp. white pepper
7. 1 tsp. black pepper
8. 1 tsp. dried thyme
9. 1 tsp. dried oregano
10. 1 tsp. kosher salt

 

Thoroughly combine all spices in a small bowl. Store in a jar in a cool, dry place.

 

 

Zabar's Would Be Proud of This

We had the pleasure of having my sister and brother-in-law visit for Thanksgiving this year. Sarah didn't want to know how I achieved our succulent and moist turkey nor did she want my fabulous gravy recipe. What she did want was the recipe for gravlax. I was flattered but the credit goes to Cathy Barrow. She includes a recipe for this deli treat in Mrs. Wheelbarrow's Practical Pantry. Gravlax is a breakfast favorite for us and this is as good as Zabar's, one of my favorite of such delicacies in New York City.

GRAVLAX

1. 1 1/2 TBS white peppercorns
2. 1 TBS anise seeds
3. 1/4 cup (3 oz.) coarsely chopped fresh dill
4. 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
5. 3 TBS kosher salt
6. 3 TBS gin
7. 2 pounds center cut salmon fillet (Skin-on)

In a small dry skillet, toast the white peppercorns and anise seeds until they release their fragrance,about 3 minutes.Remove from the heat.

Pulse the coasrsely chopped dill a few times in the bowl of a food processor, then add the sugar, salt and toasted spices. Process until all the herbs and spices are ground very fine. Add the gin and pulse to make a loose paste.

Rinse and dry the salmon. Check for pin bones and remove any you find with strong tweezers. Set a large piece of foil on the work surface and cover with a piece of plastic wrap. Dump the herb paste on top of the salmon and pat it over the surface. Wrap tightly in the plastic and then the foil.

Place the package in a one gallon zip lock abag, set it on a baking sheet or tray and put another pan on top of the fish Weight down the pan with heavy cans or a brick Cure in the refrigerator for 2 days, turning the bag over a few times.

Removethe pan and weights, remove the fish from the bag and unwrap it. Scrape off and discard most of the paste. Dry the fish with paper towels, then press the remaining finely chopped dill all over the flesh side of the salmon. Well wrapped in plastic wrap, the gravlax can be stored in the refritgerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

To serve, slice paper-thin, on a slight angle, cutting it away from the skin.

Everything But The Turkey

"Everything But the Turkey" was the title of Christine Hickman's latest offering. We learned how to make some truly wonderful side dishes that pair well with turkey. These recipes will definitely go into my keeper file for both the present and the future.

Christine at her ebullient best

Butternut Squash and Pear Soup with Chickpea Fries for Garnish

I love this soup. The pear adds a delicate sweetness to the earthy squash. A cinch to make and it freezes well (minus the cream). When I made it at home, I found that it didn't need any cream at all.This is the perfect soup to start your Thanksgiving dinner. It is light enough so that your guests won't feel full before they start to chow down on turkey, stuffing and all the other things that will fill your table.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND PEAR SOUP

(serves 4 to 6)

1. 4 TBSP butter
2. 2 medium onions, diced
3. 1 medium buttnernut squash, peeled, seeded and cut ito 1-inch pieces
4. 4 pears, peeled and chopped into roughly 1-inch pices
5. 1 quart (or enough to cover) low-sodium chicken stock
6. 1 sprig rosemary
7. Heavy cream (optional)
8. Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a four-quart saucepan melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the choppsed onions and cook until they turn translucent. Do not brown.

Add the squash and pear and cook until they begin to soften.

Pour in the stock, enough to cover the solids.

Add the sprig of rosemary, bring to a simmer ad cook util squash is fork tender, 20-25 minutes.

Remove the rosemary. Puree with an immersion blender, or in batches in a food processor.

Add a touch of cream (1/4 to 1/2 cup) if desired, being careful not overpower the flavors of the soup.

Season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

 

CHICKPEA FRIES WITH SAGE & PARMESAN

(serves 12)

1. Course salt and freshly ground pepper
2. Oil for frying
3. 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
4. 2 3/4 cups milk
5. 1 1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter
6. 1 cup chickpea flour
7. 2 tablespoons finely chopped sage
8. 1 small garlic clove, minced

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, butter and garlic and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderately low and gradually whisk in the chickpea flour until smooth. Stir constantly with a rubber spatula until the mixture thickens, about 2 minutes. Season with salt ad pepper.

Scrape the mixture into a nonstick 9-by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet or baking dish that has been lightly sprayed with vegetable oil. Spread into a 1/4-inch layer. Cover with parchment peper and refrigerate until firm, 2 to 3 hours.

Pour an inch of oil (not olive) into a wide skillet and heat it to 350 degrees or until a piece of bread bubbles rapidly when added to the hot oil. Meanwhile, cut the chickpea mixture into 2-inch squares. Fry the squares in batches until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Transfer the squares to a rack lined with paper towels to drain, then keep them warm in a low oven while you fry the rest.

In a bowl, mix the sage and Parmesan cheese. Toss the fries in the cheese and sage mixture util coated.

Serve warm.

This recipe can be prepared through the fying step. Refrigerate overnight. Recrisp the fries in a 350 degree oven. Toss with the sage and parmesan before serving.

 

 

An Italian Dinnner

One of my readers chastised me for not providing recipes for the food described in my last post. Mea culpa. So, here are a few recipes that will help you put together an Italian dinner of your own. And a quick reminder that Bear Cuisine now has a search function as well as recipe categories if you are looking for a particular recipe or type of food.

Bruschette

There are several varieties of bruschette in this picture. Here is the link for a recipe of a particularly delicious one that we enjoyed in one of Christine's classes a few years back.

Ricotta Gnocchi with Basil Pesto Sauce

RICOTTA GNOCCHI

1. 10 ounces whole milk ricota
2. 1/2 to 3/4 cup unbleached flour
3. 1 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano or ricotta salata cheese
4. 1 egg
5. 2 egg yolks
6. Pinch of salt
7. 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Strain the ricotta 4 hours or longer in a fine-meshed strainer or cheesecloth place over a bowl in the refrigerator.

Pass the ricotta through the fine disk of a food mill into a large bowl. Lightly beat the eggs and add to the ricotta along with the remaining ingredients, mixing lightly just until combined and using the lesser amount of flour. Gather into a ball and place on a lightly floured surface.

Take a tiny portion of dough and shape into 2 or 3 gnocchi-size pieces. Test cook in boiling water and add more flour if necessary-1/8 cup at a time, until the desired consistency is reached.

Divide the dough into 4-6 pieces and roll into finger-thick ropes. Cut into 3/4-inch pieces and press over the reversed tines of a fork, a butter paddle or wodden gnocchi "press", if desired. Place finished gnocchi on a lightly floured tray.

Bring a very large pot of water to boil (no less than 1 gallon), add 1 tablespoon of salt, then drop in the gnocchi, cooking no more than half the batch at a time.

Have ready a large bowl with 1/2 the desired sauce portioned into it, as well as heated serving bowls. As the gnocchi rise to the surface, remove with a slotted spoon, toss with the sauce, garnish as desired and serve immediately. Repeat with the remaining gnocchi and sauce.

Makes about 120 gnocchi serving 4-6 persons.

This is a good gnocchi for stuffing or sauteing because the dough is very easy to handle and keeps its shape.

If you need a primer on making gnocchi, click here.

For a recipe for Basil Pesto click here.

 

 Chocolate Olive Oil Cake with Mascarpone Cream

 

CHOCOLATE OLIVE OIL CAKE

with cream and seasonal berries

 

1. 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2. 2 cups sugar
3. 6 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
4. 1 teaspoon baking soda
5. ½ teaspoon salt                                                
6. ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil                                          
7. 1 tablespoon white vinegar
8. 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
9. 2 cups cold water

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Butter and flour 2  9-inch cake or spring form pans.

Sift the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, and salt together into a large bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer.  With a hand mixer or the standing mixer on low speed, beat in the oil, vinegar, vanilla, and water until smooth.  Pour the mixture into the prepared pans.

Bake for 30-35 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.  Do not overbake.  The cake should be firm to the touch.

Place the cake pans on cooling racks and cool for 15 to 20 minutes, then remove the cakes from the pans to cool completely.

 

Makes 2  9-inch layers

 

 

 

This cake is so dense, super-chocolaty, and moist that it keeps well for a week in the refrigerator.  It may be frosted with a simple cream cheese frosting or frosting of choice, dusted with confectioners’ sugar and served with whipped cream and fresh fruit, or with

Crème Anglaise.  The batter can also be used to make cupcakes.

The recipe is written for Santa Fe:  high-altitude (7000 ft.).  At sea level, use 2 teaspoons baking soda and 2 tablespoons white vinegar.  Decrease flour to 3½ cups.

 

 

 

MASCARPONE CREAM

1. 1 cup mascarpone, at room temperature
2. ¾ cup heavy cream
3. ¾ teaspoon finely grated orange zest
4. 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
5. Pinch salt

 

In a large bowl using an electric mixer, beat the mascarpone with the cream, orange zest, confectioners’ sugar and salt until soft peaks form.  Chill until ready to use.

 

 

 

SONO MARCELLA

 

Christine Y. Hickman

 

 

 

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An African Supper

Recently, Emily Swantner of Epicurian Odyssey hosted an amazing African dinner as part of her Sunday Supper series. Before dinner we lilstened to the music of Soriba Fofana who played the traditional music of Guinea. His drumming was vibrant and the vocal music was haunting and hypnotic. This mini-concert was an enchanting way to begin the evening.

 

While we listened ,we scarfed down Moroccan Spicy Fekkas. You should put this recipe in your files. These would make a great appetizer for any party.

  Moroccan Spicy Fekkas

Moroccan Spicy Fekkas

(makes 7 to 8 dozen)

Allow time for chilling the dough twice

1. 4 cups all-purpose flour
2. 1 tablespoon sea salt
3. 2 teaspoons pepper
4. 1 teaspoon baking powder
5. 1 cup unsalted butter, chilled
6. 1 egg
7. 1/2 cup milk
8. 1 small cube beef or vegetable bouillon, crumbled
9. 2 tablespoons harissa or hot sauce
10. 1 1/4 cups grated cheese, Gruyer, Cheddar, etc.
11. 1 small onion, grated
12. 1 clove garlic, grated or pressed
13. handful of fresh parsley, chopped.

Mix the flour, salt, pepper and baking powder in a large bowl. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or fork until the mixture is crumbly.

Add the milk, egg, bouillon, harissa, cheese, onion, garlic and parsley. Mix to form a soft, sticky doubh. Don't over mix. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and chill the dough for several hours or overnight.

With floured hands, divide the chilled dough into balls about the size of small apples. Roll each ball back and forth on a lightly floured surface to make thin sticks of dough as thick as two fingers.Place the sticks of dough on a tray lined with plastic wrap. Cover with another layer of plastic and freeze for one to two hours, until the dough is stiff enough to cut into thin slices.

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.

Remove one stick of chilled dough at time from the freezer and cut into 1/8-inch slices. Place the slices on ungreased baking sheeets (closer together but not touching) and bake until well-colored, about 20 minutes, do Not under bake, or the fekkas will not be cruncy.

Allow the spicy fekkas to cool for five to 10 minutes on the baking sheet. Use a dough scraper or spatula to loosen the fekkas from the pan, and transfer them to a rack to cool completely. They can be piled on top of each other wile they cool.

Store the cooled fekkas in an airtight plastic container for up to two weeks. They can also be frozen for several months.

 (Adapted from Christine Benlafquih for About.com)

 

Our first course was a beautiful Carrot Salad. This could convert a vegetable-hater into a vegetarian.

Tunisian Carrot Salad with Cumin, Coriander and Caraway

Tunisian Carrot Salad

(6 to 8 servings)

1. 2 pounds carrots, preferably small and assorted colors, peeled
2. 1 teaspoon salt or to taste
3. Fresh lemon juice from 1 lemon
4. 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
5. 1 teaspoon caraway seeds, toasted
6. 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted
7. 1 teaspoon harissa or more to taste
8. 3 tablespoons olive oil
9. cilantro leaves, for garnish

Bring a pot of water to a boil, and add carrots and 1 teaspoon salt. Boil until amost tender, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, set aside a bowl of ice water. Transfer cooked carots to the ice bath.

Drain carrots and c ut 1/4-inch thick piecdes on the bias. Put in a mixing bowl.

Witha mortar and pestle, crush the cuminm caraway and coriander seeds.

In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, harissa, crushed spices and salt to taste. While whisking, drizzle in the olive oil.

Pour the vinaigrette over the carrots and gently mix to combine.

Transfer to a serving dish, top with cilantro leaves and serve at room temperature.

(adapted from Carole Chaouat for the New York Times)

 

Our next course as a flavorful Chicken Stew

Doro Wat:Ethiopian Spiced Chicken Stew

Doro Wat

(8 servings)

Emily's note: This spicey chicken stew is the national dish of Ethiopia. The sauce is thin--all the better to soak into injeera or rice. A cut-up whole chicken would be more authentic, but for ease, I use boneless chicken thighs when feeding a crowd.

1. 2 medium red onions, diced
2. kosher salt
3. 1/4 cup Niter Kibbeh (spiced butter) or ghee
4. 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
5. 1/4 teaspoon freshly milled black pepper
6. 3 whole cloves
7. 2 large garlic cloves, minced
8. 1 1/2-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
9. 2 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste
10. 1 tablespoon berbere or to taste
11. 2 1/2 cups chicken stock, divided
12. 3 pounds boneless chicken thighs or for a more authentic version, one 4 to 5 pound chicken cut into 10 pieces
13. 1/4 cup dry red wine
14. juice of 1 lime
15. 4 hardboiled eggs peeled
16. rice pilaf seasoned with turmeric

Pat dry and salt the chicken thighs and set aside.

Combine the onions, a pinch of salt, and half the spiced butter or ghee in a Dutch oven over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally until the onion are golden, 15 minutes. Add the remaining spiced butter and the spices. Cook about 10 more minutes or until the onions are meltingly soft and take on the color of the spices. Add 2 cups stock and the chicken pieces, bring to a slow simmer and cook 15 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup stock and the red wine. Simmer again for 10 minutes.

When the chicken is done, gently stir in the lime juice, Halve the eggs and gently simmer another 5 minutes or until eggs are heated through. Be careful not to smash the eggs. Adjust the seasoning, adding salt if necessary.

You can make this ahead and gently reheat.

(adapted from Marcus Samuelsson. The Soul of a New Cuisine.)

 

Ethiopan Spiced Clarified Butter (Niter Kibbeh)

(yield: 1 cup)

Emily's Note: Niter Kebbeh is a clarified butter similar to shee and it's simple to make on your home stove. By separating the butterfat from the milk solids and water, what you're left with is a rich, creamy cooking fat with a highter smoke point and a longer shelf life. Seasoned with aromatics and spices, the Ethiopian version lends depth of flavor to slow-cooked stews like doro wat, braised vegetables and sauteed meat.

 Use the versatile butter when cooking eggs, vegetables, sauces and more I like using it as a shortcut to flavor simple lentils or sauteed greens like kale, and drizzling on popcorn. You can also brush injera flatbread with melted niter kibbeh, sprinkle with it with berbere and bake in the oven for out-of-this-world Ethiopian spiced chips.

1. 1 pound butter
2. 4-5 cloves garlic,minced
3. 1 small yellow onion chopped
4. 1 tablespoon grated ginger
5. 1 1/2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
6. 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
7. Optional additional spices:
8. 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
9. 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
10. 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds or nigella seeds
11. 1 cinnamon stick
12. 1 clove

 

Place all the ingredients in a saucepan over medium-low heat. As foam rises to the top, skim it off with a spoon. If it rises too much as if it is going to boil over, lower the heat.

Continue simmering gently until there is no more foam, about 30 minutes. It is done when the buttter is clear on top and the solids sink to the bottom. Remove from heat.

Place a strainer over a heat-proof bowl and line it with cheesecloth or a coffer filter. Pour the butter through the strainer and discard the solids. Strain as many times as necessary to achieve a completely clear butter with no residue or spices.

Let the butter cool slightly and pour it into a jar or other container. Store tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to two months or freeze for a longer period.

 (fromThekitchen.com)

 

Ethiopian Ginger-Garlic Paste

(makes about 1/2 cup)

Ginger made its way to Africa through Middle Eastern and Asian traders and is now used throughout the continent both as a flavoring and for medicinal purposes. use this paste to lend ginger's wonderfully distinctive pungent,peppery flavor to fish, meat or poultry.

1. 3 medium garlic cloves, minced
2. 1 tablespoon ground ginger
3. 1 teaspoon ground coriander
4. 1/2 teaspoon pure chile powder
5. 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
6. 2 tablespoons coarsley chopped dry-roasted peanuts
7. 1 tablespoon peant oil
8. 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
9. 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
10. 1 four-inched piece ginger, peeled and grated

Heat a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ground ginger, coriander, chile powder, turmeric and peanuts and toast, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer to a food processor. Add the oil and lemon juice and process until well combined but not smooth. Add the salt and process to blend. Before using using, fold in the grated ginger.

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

(adapted from Marcus Samuelsson. The Soul of a New Cuisine.)

 

Yellow Rice

(4 servings)

1. 2 tablespoons clarified buter or 1 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2. 1 small white onion, small dice
3. 2 cloves garlic, minced
4. 1 cup extra-long-grain white rice
5. 1 1/2 cups chicken stock
6. 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
7. 1 teaspoon turmeric

In a large saucepan, over medium heat, melt the butter with the olive oil. Add the garlic, onion and long grain rice. Stir the rice mixture until fragrant about 2 to 3 minutes.

After toasting the rice mixture, add the chicken broth, salt, and turmeric to the pan. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil. Cover with a lid and reduce to a medium simmer and let cook for about 20 minutes. Do not stir.

Remove from the heat and set aside for a couple of minutes. Then serve.

(from Emily C. Swantner)

 

And for dessert

Lime-Scented Poppy-Seed Rice Pudding with Mango

 

Lime-Scented Poppy-Seed Rice Pudding with Mango

(12 servings)

1. 2 1/2 quarts whole milk
2. 2 cups short-grain rice(14 ounces)
3. 1 14-ounce can unsweeted coconut milk
4. 1 vanilla bean, split and seeeds scraped
5. 2 tablespoons poppy seeds
6. 1 1/4 cups sugar
7. 1/2 cup heavy cream
8. 6 ripe mangoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
9. poppy seeds for garnish

In a medium enameled cast-iron casserole, combine the milk with rice, coconut milk, vanilla bean seeds and the poppy seeds and bring to a simmer over moderately high heat, stirring. Reduce the heat to low and simmer stirring often, until the rice is tender, about 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Stir in the sugar, heavy cream and lime zest into the rice and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the rice pudding is sweet and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, then cover tightly and refrigerate until chilled about 2 hours. Spoon the rice pudding into small bowls and top with the mango. Before topping with the mango, toss the mango with a little fresh lime juice. Garnish with a few poppy seeds.

 

(adapted from Marcus Samuelsson in Food and Wine magazine)

This was as close to perfect as an evening and a meal can get. We will have to savor the memory because for at least six months there won't be any Sunday Suppers. Emily is taking a much-needed break to refresh and recharge. We look forward to her return to the culinary stage.