Bear Cuisine

A Lighter Kind of Comfort

Fall and winter are prime seasons for the comfort of stews, braises and warming, hearty soups. As wonderful as this food is, it tends to be heavy and towards the end of the season can feel too,too much. Japanese hot pots are a beautiful alternative to heavier western food. Cooked in a donabe and served at the table, a hot pot can make an instant party. A donabe is a traditional Japanese clay pot which is designed to be used over a gas or open flame. They are beautiful cooking vessels and I share Paula Wolfert's conviction that food cooked in clay tastes more alive. If you want to take a look at the variety of styles that are available, pay a visit to The Toiro Kitchen.

I found this recipe in DONABE.Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking. If you enjoy Asian flavors, this book should be on your shelves.

NAPA CABBAGE HOT POT

NAPA CABBAGE HOT POT

1. 4 1/4 cups water
2. 4 medium dried shitake mushrooms, quickly rinsed
3. 1 (2x 4-inch) piece kombu (kelp)
4. 8 ounces boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-size pieces
5. 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, plus more for serving
6. 1/4 cup sake
7. About 1/3 to 1/2 head napa cabbage (approximately 1 1/2 pounds) cut into 1/3-inch strips crosswise (separate the bottom and leafy parts)
8. 8 ounces thinly sliced pork belly, cut into bite-sized pieces
9. 3 ounces enoki mushrooms, trimmed and pulled apart
10. 1 1/2 ounces bean thread (cellephone noodles)
11. 1/2 to 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
12. Ichimi togarashi (Japanese ground chiles) for serving

Combine the water, dried mushrooms and kombu in a large bowl. Cover and let it infuse for 6 to 24 hours (keep in the refrigerator if infusing overnight) Remove the rehydrated mushrooms, gently squeeze out the liquid into the bowl, and then cut off the mushroom stems and discard. Cut the caps in half and put them back in the bowl.

Season the chicken with salt. Let the chicken marinate for 15 to 30 minutes.

Transfer the infused water with the rehydrated mushroom caps and kombu into the donabe (strain first if there are any gritty particles left from the dried mushrooms); add the sake and the bottom of the napa cabbage. Cover and set over medium heat. Just before the broth comes to a simmer, remove the kombu. If a foam rises, skim lightly once. Turn down the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover again and simmer gently until the napa cabbage is soft, about 20 minutes.

Add both meats and cover the surface entirely with the remaining napa cabbage. Cover with the lid and turn up the heat to medium-high. As soon as the broth starts to boil, turn down the heat. Simmer gently until the napa cabbage is very soft, about 20 minutes. Add the enoki mushrooms and bean thread. Cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and drizzle with the sesame oil.

To serve at the table, first, put a pinch each of salt and ichimi togarashi into each individual bowl and pour in a small ladleful of the broth, followed by the other ingredients cooked in the broth.

Serves 4.

 

 

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Spicy Orange Fennel Slaw

Sometimes in the winter, salads don't get the attention they should. This slaw from Nina Simond's Simple Asian Meals, is easy to prepare and makes a light and vibrant accompaniment to many meals. She suggest serving it with salmon and it is a great pairing. The salad lightens the richness of the salmon.

Nina Simond's Spicy Orange Fennel Slaw

 

SPICY ORANGE FENNEL SLAW

2 fennel bulbs (about 1 1/2 pounds)

3 large seedless oranges

 

Spicy Orange Dressing

1. 2 teaspoons grated orange zest.
2. 1/2 cup fresh orange juice
3. 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
4. 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
5. 1 tablespoon Japanese rice vinegar
6. 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
7. 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
8. 1 teaspoon ground cumin
9. 1 teaspoon ground coriander
10. 1 1/4 teaspoons salt
11. 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

 

Trim the root end of the fennel bulbs and cut away the stalks an discard, reserving the fronds. Cut the fennel bulbs in half. Cut out the core and discard; cut the bulbs into very thin slices. Coarsely chop the fennel fronds and set aside.

Grate the zest and squeeze the juice of 1 orange; set aside. Peel the remaining 2 oranges and cut away the white pulp. Separate the orange sections and cut each section crosswise in half. Mix the fennel and orange sections with the coarsely chopped fennel fronds in a serving bowl.

Taste the dressing for seasoning and adjust if necessary. Pour the dressing over the fennel and orange sections and toss lightly to coat. Cover and let sit or refrigerate to chill slightly.

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Kimchiminee,Kimchiminee,Kimchimchiree

Chef Johnny Vee of Las Cosas Cooking School has fallen in love with the latest Korean cookbook, Koreatown.  He shared his new love in a recent class using recipes from Koreatown which is the brainchild of Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard. Hong and Rodbard travled throughout the U.S. documenting meals and conversations withe cooks and owners of Korean restaurants . The result is a fascinating glimpse into an Asian food culture that not many round-eyes know much about.  I can see why Johnny is smitten.

Johnny Vee

 

There is more to Korean food that its famous fried chicken, but the book gives us the secret for the fabulous crispy chicken--a secret I was very happy to learn and pass on.

"Many have said that frying the chicken twice achieves a next-level crunch, which we aren't going to deny.But the real key is the batter.Ours uses soju, which inhibits gluten formation and keeps the batter light. If you have a little extra time, we highly recommend partially frying the chicken, then freezing it for at least 2 hours before a second fry."

Dakgangjeong

KOREATOWN FRIED CHICKEN

(serves 4)

1. 8 cups vegetable oil
2. 2 pounds chicken wings or thighs
3. 1/2 cup cornstarch
4. 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
5. 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
6. 1 teaspoon kosher salt
7. 1/2 cup soju or vodka
8. 1/2 cup ice-cold water
9. Soy Garlic Glaze
10. 1/4 cup sliced scallions

Heat the vegetable oil over low heat in a heavy pot or Dutch oven with high sides until the oil registers 350 degrees F on a frying thermometer.  If you are using chicken wings cut through the joints between the wings and drumettes to separate them.

In a medium bowl. whisk together the cornstarch, all-purpose flour, baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, soju and cold water. Dip chicken parts in batter until every coated, shaking off excess batter and place on a try.

Set up a tray lined with paper towels. Raise the heat and medium-high and maintain the oil at 350 degrees F. Carefully, lower the chicken into the oil, as many pieces as will comfortably fit and fry for 8 to 10 minutes until golden brown and cooked through. With a heatproof slotted spoon, remove the chicken pieces and drain them o the paper-towel-lined tray. Immediately season with salt. While still hot, toss the chicken in a large bowl with just enough glaze to coat. Garnish with scallions and serve immediately.

SOY GARLIC GLAZE

(makes enough for 1 batch of fried chicken)

1. 1/4 cup Korean rice or corn syrup
2. 1/4 cup soy sauce
3. 2 garlic cloves,minced
4. 1 TBS mirin
5. 1 TBS sesame oil

Combine corn syrup, soy sauce, garlic and mirin in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 1 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in sesame oil. Hold until ready to use.

This is fabulous fried chicken. Maybe the best I've ever had. Maybe.

 

 

 

Green Mango and Shrimp Salad

This is the salad that we enjoyed in the Vietnamese Lunar New Year celebration in Santa Fe.It can be a palate cleanser when part of a larger meal or it can be meal in itself. Whatever way you choose to serve it, this is absolutely delicious and satisfying without leaving you feeling too full.

Green Mango and Shrimp Salad

 

GREEN MANGO AND SHRIMP SALAD

(7 large servings)

Salad

• 1 pound large shrimp (31/35 count) peeled and deveined
• 2 green mangoes, peeled and julienned
• 1/2 large jicama, peeled and julienned
• 1 large red pepper, julienned
• 2 large carrots, peeled and julienned
• 1 cup chopped Vietnamese herbs (mint, sweet basil, cilantro)
• 2 tablespoons friend shallots
• 2 tablespoons lightly salted, roughly chopped roasted peanuts

 

Vietnamese Lime Dressing

• 1/2 cup Vietnamese Dippy sauce
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 teaspoons Vietnamese fish sauce, adjust to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic-chili paste

 

Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

• 1/3 cup fish sauce
• 1/3 cup white vinegar
• 1/3 cup organic cane sugar
• 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
• 1 cup water
• 2 garlic cloves, mashed or minced

 

Prepare the lime dressing by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl.

Poach shrimp by bringing to a boil a pot of water and juice from the half lemon. Remove pot from heat, add shrimp, cover and let stand for 5 minutes or just until shrimp turn pink. Drain and cool in refrigerator.

In a large bowl combine the green mango, jicama, carrot,chili, herbs and poached shrimp and a couple of spoons of dressing. Toss well.

Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with fried shallots ad peanuts.

 

Vietnamese Lunar New Year

Every once in a while the Santa Fe School of Cooking hosts a guest chef who cooks something other than native New Mexican food. Last week Hue-Chan Karels, the founder and chef of The Open Kitchen offered a Vietnamese Lunar New Year Tasting Dinner. It was spectacular. Chef Hue-Chan was a personable,engaging, knowledgeable host and the food which she and the cooking school staff prepared was simply wonderful. For me this was the best of both worlds-- an amazing dining experience combined with teaching about food and culture.

Hue-Chan Karels

Vietnamese Crispy Spring Rolls filled with ground pork, shitake mushroom, jicama, carrots and glass noodles served with a Vietnamese traditional dipping sauce

White Asparagus and Crab Meat Soup

This is an essential dish on the occasion of Tet (New Year's)--a savory glutinous rice cake filled with mung beans and seasoned pork, wrapped in banana leaf and served with ginger and star anise beef and an assortment of pickled vegetables.

 Green Mango and shrimp salad tossed with Vietnamese lime dressing topped with roasted peanuts and crisp shallots

Pork belly braised in coconut juice and hard-boiled eggs served with jasmine rice and pickled bean sprouts

Steamed fish with ginger, Shitake mushroom and glass noodles

Candied ginger,lotus seeds and sweet potato

 

Such beautifully prepared and presented food is a great treat. Kudos to chef Hue-Chan and the Santa Fe School of Cooking.