Bear Cuisine

Lightning Strikes Twice at Los Poblanos

When Los Poblanos hosted Nancy Singleton Hachisu , who was then on her book tour for Japanese Farm Food, (click here for the earlier post) I thought it was an extraordinary event that would not be repeated in my lifetime. Some smart student of Zen will point out that no event can be repeated; each moment is unique.Yes ,grasshopper that is true, but what was repeated was a visit from the delightful Nancy Singleton Hachisu. 

This time she was promoting her new book, Preserving the Japanese Way. Traditions of Salting, Fermenting,and Pickling for the Modern Kitchen. It's a clever title, for this book is as much about preserving the traditional methods of preservation as it it is about  recipes and techniques for the English-speaking cook. Like its predecessor, this is a beautiful book with gorgeous pictures and intriguing  stories about the Japanese people who make these traditional foods. This is a book to savor with all of your senses, even if you never use a single recipe from it. I think, however, it would be a shame if one didn't cook from it.

Nancy's energy is amazing. Just watching her prepare the dishes for the lunch we would enjoy left me a bit breathless. It's inspiring to watch someone who so clearly loves her subject and the work that flows from that love.

Miso-Pickled Semi-Hardboiled eggs,Sauteed Shishito flavored with Miso,Quick-boiled wild Arugula with Walnut-Miso dressing,

Shio Koji Grilled Boneless Pork Butt Chops, Fall Greens Salad with Figs and Soy Sauce Vinaigrette

Salt-Massaged Baby Turnips and their greens, Cucumber pickles with Umeboshi and Katsuobushi, Celery pickled in Dashi and Fish Sauce

I hope the pictures give you some idea of the beauty and the pure goodness of this food. Using first-rate ingredients and treating them with respect and impeccable technique made for a truly memorable meal.

If you have any interest at all in things Japanese, you should read this book.

A Pleasure of Spring

In another universe it may be possible to have too much asparagus, but in this one I can't imagine such a thing. This recipe comes from Nobu Matsuhisa by way Food 52 Genius Recipes.The headnote to this "Fried Asparagus with Miso Dressing." is worth quoting.

"The skin ripples and shines like that of a striped bass. The tips frizzle, each little purple talon spreads and crisps up all around the edges. The stalks turn vivid green and tender in just a minute or two under the oil."

Fried Asparagus with Miso Dressing

FRIED ASPARAGUS WITH MISO DRESSING

(serves 2 to 4)

Miso Dressing

1. 3 ounces white miso or red grain miso
2. A dab of garlic paste or 1 small garlic clove, grated
3. 1 teaspoon soy sauce
4. 1/2 cup grapeseed oil
5. 1/4 cup rice vinegar
6. sugar syrup, to taste
   

 

1. 3 inches white part of 1 leek
2. oil for deep-frying (grapeseed or peanut)
3. 9 ounces green asparagus spears

 

To make the dressing, combine the miso with the garlic, soy sauce, grapeseed oil and vinegar. Check the taste and add the sugar syrup, if desired.

Slash the leek lengthwise to open and discard the inner core. Wash off the sand between the layers under running cold water. Cut into thin shreds. Pat dry.

Pour 2 inches of oil into a pot wide enough to hold the asparagus. Heat the oil for deep-frying to about 300 degrees F. Deep-fry the leek until it begins to brown. Scoop the fried leek out with a slotted spoon or spider and drain on a wire rack in a warm spot in the kitchen for up to 2 hours.

Reheat the oil up to 320 degrees F. Trim off the hard bottom of each asparagus and deep-fry in the oil for 1 to 2 minutes, until the asparagus is bright green and just tender.

To serve, spoon the miso dressing on a plate and stack the asparagus on it. Top with the fried leek. Serve immediately.

Heaven. I'm in heaven.

 

Small & Tasty Bites in Santa Fe

Ten Thousand Waves , a Japanese-style Spa just outside of Santa Fe has long been a favorite destination for locals and tourists. This year they have added a restaurant, Izanami, to their establishment. I can't say enough good things about Izanami. It's a Japanese Bistro with small plates that are beautifully prepared and reasonably priced.

On recent visits we enjoyed several seasonal and standard offerings.

Spring Pea Soup

Gyoza

Shichimi Fries

(Kennebec potatoes, shichimi, yuzu aioli)

Fried Avocado

Organic Grilled Chicken Livers

The menu is always changing and whatever we have ordered has been fabulously delicious.

Like the rest of the spa, the restaurant has been built with attention to every detail. The result is a stunningly beautiful space that feeds the eye of the soul as well as the body.

The menu changes with the seasons and so do the interior decorations. Some, like these Godzilla dinosaurs, are whimsical; others more traditional.

This has become one of our favorite restaurants in Santa Fe. When you visit, we will be ever so glad to take you there.

Szechuan Noodles

This is another sure-fire drecipe from Ina Garten.  I pair it with Eli's Asian Salmon, but it can easily stand on its own as a filling and substantial salad. It would be perfect to take on a picnic.

 

SZECHUAN NOODLES

(serves 6 to 8)

1. 6 garlic cloves, chopped
2. 1/4 cup fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
3. 1/2 cup vegetable oil
4. 1/2 cup tahini(sesame paste)
5. 1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
6. 1/2 cup good soy sauce
7. 1/4 cup dry sherry
8. 1/4 cup sherry vinegar
9. 1/4 cup honey
10. 1/2 teaspoon hot chili oil
11. 2 tablespoons dark sesame oil
12. 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
13. 1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
14. 1 pound spaghetti
15. 1 red bell pepper, julienned
16. 1 yellow pepper, julienned
17. 4 scallions, sliced diagongally (white and green parts)

Place the garlic and ginger in a food processor. Add vegetable oil, tahini, peanut butter, soy sauce, sherry, sherry vinegar, honey, chili oil,sesame oil and ground peppers. Puree the sauce.

Cook the spaghetti until it is just cooked with a bit of bite to the noodles (al dente). Drain the pasta, place it in a large bowl and while still warm, toss with three-quarters of the sauce. Add the red and yellow bell pepper and scallion and toss well. Serve warm or at room temperature. The remaining sauce may be added, as needed, to moisten the pasta.

 

Salmon with an Asian Twist

After the holidays, I start to long for lighter fare. This dish from Ina Garten provides relief from holiday heaviness.

ELI'S ASIAN SALMON

(serves 6)

1. 2 1/4 pounds center-cut salmon fillet ( 1 1/2" thick)
2. 1 cup soy sauce
3. 1/4 cup rice vinegar
4. 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (2 lemons)
5. 2 TBS oyster sauce
6. 1 TBS. fish sauce
7. 1 TBS toasted (dark) sesame oil
8. 1 1/2 teaspoons chili paste
9. 1/2 cup sliced scallions (2 scallions)
10. 2TBS minced garlic (8 large cloves)
11. 2 TBS minced fresh ginger
12. 1 1/2 cups panko

Line an 8x12-inch baking pan with aluminum foil. Place the salmon in the pan.

In a mixing cup combine the soy sauce, rice vinegar, lemon juice, oyster sauce, fish sauce, sesame oil, chili paste,scallions, garlic and ginger. Pour one-third of the soy sauce mixture over the salmon fillet. Sprinkle the panko evenly over the fillet. Pour the rest of the soy sauce mixture evenly over the panko. Be sure to soak the panko completely and if any run off, spoon them back on the salmon. Set aside for 15 minutes, leaving all the sauce in the pan.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Roast the salmon for 18 to 20 minutes, or for about 12 minutes per inch at the thickest part of the salmon. The internal temperature should read 120 degrees on a meat thermometer when it's done. Remove from the oven, wrap tightly with aluminum foil and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.