Bear Cuisine

Tasting New Mexico

In 2012 New Mexico celebrated its Centennial--in 1912 the territory became a state. To mark the occasion the New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs asked the indefatigable team of Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison to produce a cookbook of New  Mexican food.

Bill and Cheryl Alters Jamison

The result of their labors is Tasting New Mexico. For those of you who like New Mexican food this will be a great addition to your library. For those of you who are touristing here, this could be a wonderful momento of your visit.

One of the things I particularly like about this book is that it traces the history of the state through its foods, both the traditional foods we associate with New Mexican cuisine and the adaptations that immigrants have made using local ingredients. Here is the story behind Green Chile Tempura developed by Shohko and Hiro Fukada, restaurateurs in Santa Fe.

"Shohko and Hiro Fukada arrived in the United States from Japn during the era of the 'flower children.' Like many others of their generation, they roamed the country for months by Volkswagen minibus. When they arrived in northern New Mexico, they knew they had found their future home. Before leaving Japan, Shohko and Hiro had studied with George Ohsawa, founder of the macrobiotic diet and philosophy. Their knowledge of the subject led them to open a natural foods store in Santa Fe and eventually to found Shohko Cafe, still going strong today with the help of their daughters. The couple's fascination with chiles rellenos inspired them to create green chile tempura, now also found on many other menus around the state."

GREEN CHILE TEMPURA

Dipping Sauce

1. 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons soy sauce
2. 3 tablespoons mirin
3. 1 1/2 teaspoons rice vinegar
4. 1 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

Tempura

1. 6 fresh whole mild to medium New Mexican green chiles
2. vegetable oil for deep-frying
3. 1 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
4. 1 large egg yolk
5. 1 1/2 cups ice water
6. 1 1/2 cups cake flour (divided use)

For the Sauce

Stir together the soy sauce, mirin and rice vinegar in a small bowl. If you wish stir in the ginger.

For the tempura

Roast the chiles over a stove burner, turning them with tongs as needed to blacken and blister them on all sides Place the chiles into a plastic bag to steam until cool enough to handle. Peel the chiles, wearing rubber gloves if your skin is sensitive. Strip away the blackened peel, using paper towels to get off as much as possible. Slice each chile in half vertically and discard the stem and seeds. Cut each chile half crosswise into 2 pieces.

Pour about 3 inches of vegetable oil into a deep skillet, then add the sesame oil. Heat the oil to 375 degrees. Place a baking rack over several thicknesses of paper towels near the stovetop.

While the oil heats, mix the batter. First whisk together the egg yok and ice water until quite frothy. Whisk in 1 1/4 cups of cake flour, just until lightly blended. Don't overwork the batter. A few streaks of lumps of flour are fine. The batter will be thin.

Dump the remaining 1/4 cup flour into a shallow bowl.

When the oil reaches 375 degress, immediately dunk the chile pieces, a few at a time, into the dish of flour, then dip in the batter and slip into the oil. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turning as needed, until just golden. Drain on the baking rack. Repeat with the remaining chile pieces and batter, adding as many to the oil as you can without crowding and dropping the oil temperature. Serve immediately with the sauce.

Japanese Farm Food

As much as I love Thanksgiving,it doesn't take too many days after the day for me to start longing for lighter fare. My thoughts begin to turn to light broths and winter salads. Japanese food is the perfect antidote for the traditional heavier foods of the holidays.

Los Poblanos hosted a demonstration class with Nancy Singleton Hachisu in late October and she provided an excellent introduction to Japanese food and cooking. She went to Japan for the food and fell in love with a Japanese organic farmer. For the last 20 years she has been living in Japan, raising her family and learning how to cook and eat Japanese farm food. Her new book, Japanese Farm Food, recounts her cooking, eating and living adventures in Japan and gives us insights into a very different culture as well as some great recipes.

Nancy Singleton Hachisu is  amazingly energetic and a persuasive spokeswoman for the glories of simple, rustic Japanese cuisine.

Japanese Farm Food is a beautiful book in every way. The writing is clear and evocative; the pictures are gorgeous and it is beautifully bound. Even if I had no interest in the food, I would want this on my shelves simply because it is such an enticing, well-made object. (The curse of the collector)

These are appetizers that won't ruin anyone's appetite for the main course. The centerpiece of this platter is Eggs Pickled in Soy Sauce.

EGGS PICKLED IN SOY SAUCE

(serves 6)

• 8 fresh eggs at room temperature
• 1/4 cup soy sauce

Fill a medium-sized saucepan three-quarters full with water and bring to a boil Place the eggs in a small strainer and lower into the boiling water. Boil for 8 to 9 minutes, depending on size. Set a large bowl in the kitchen sink and fill with cold water. Scoop the eggs from the boiling water with the strainer and immediately plunge into the water. Run more cold water if the water temperature feels warm. When the eggs are cool, gently crack by rapping and rolling on a cutting board. Put the eggs back in cold water for a few more minutes, then peel Try to get to the inner membrane and peel by running your thumb under the membrance to free the shiny white egg.

Lay the peeled eggs in a dry dish towel. Pat dry,then place the eggs in a freezer-style gallon resealable plastic bag. Pour in the soy sauce, tip the bag to distribute, press out all the air and roll up any unused portion of the bag to create a tight cylinder. Refrigerate overnight. Serve before dinner with drinks or as a side dish for a barbecue or picnic. Best on the first day.

CHICKEN SALAD WITH SESAME-MISO VINAIGRETTE

(serves 6)

1. 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 9 ounces/250 grams each)
2. 2 tablespoons sake
3. 2 teaspoons grated ginger
4. 1 teaspoon sea salt
5. 2 small heads of butter lettuce
6. Sesame-Miso Vinaigrette

Fill a deep frying pan or wok halfway with water and bring to a simmer over high heat. The pan should be large enough to be able to set a steamer over but not in the simmering water.

Sprinkle each chicken breast with 1 tablespoon sake, then smear each piece with 1 teaspoon grated ginger and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Wrap in foil. Set the foil-wrapped chicken in the steamer and cook for 20 minutes over medium-high heat. Remove the steamer from the heat and allow the chicken pieces to cool in their juices.

Tear off any outer discolored leaves of the lettuce and cut off the stem end with a sharp knife about 1 inch from the bottom (this helps remove unwanted dirt). If possible, don't wash the lettuce--just wipe away any clinging dirt with a damp towel. Leave the lettuce leaves whole if they are not too big, otherwise cut crosswise into 3-inch wide pieces.

Make the sesame-miso vinaigrette--but reserve a teaspoon or so of the ground sesame seeds to sprinkle on the salad after dressing. Whisk again right before serving.

When the chicken is cool, remove it from the foil packets but do not discard the liquid. Shred the chicken by hand into 1/4-inch thick pieces and moisten with a tiny bit of the steaming liquid if the meat seems slightly dry.

When ready to serve, remove the lettuce from the fridge and mound attractively on a large platter or individual plates Strew the chicken pieces over the top, drizzle sparingly with some seasame-miso vinaigrette and sprinkle with reserved roughly ground sesame seeds.

SEASME-MISO VINAIGRETTE

(makes enough for 1 main-dish salad)

1. 2 tablespoons unhulled seasame seeds
2. 1 tablespoon brown rice miso
3. 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
4. 4 tablespoons rapeseed oil*

Measure the sesame seeds into a small frying pan and roast over medium-high heat while lifting and shaking the pan to avoid burning the seeds. (They burn easily!) When the seeds start to pop, remove from the heat.

Slide the seeds into a Japanese grinding bowl (suribachi) or mortar and grind roughly (reserve a teaspoon or so of the smashed seeds to sprinkle on the salad after dressing). Mash in the miso to form a thick paste and add the vinegar to lighten and brighten the miso-sesame mixture. Whisk in the rapeseed oil slowly until emulsified. (Be sure to whisk again right before dressing your salad.)

Strew the dressed salad withe reserved roughly ground seeds.

RATIO: seasme:miso:rice viegar:rapeseed oil--2:1:2:4

*Rapeseed oil is marketed here by the name of Canola Oil. I tend not to like becuase it is often rancid by the time it reaches our grocery shelves and stands a very good chance of being contaminated by GMO's. Grapeseed oil can be a good substitute. Whatever you use, it needs to be light and bright.

Middle Eastern Shepherd's Pie with Spiced Parsnip Crust

 

Lynn Rosetto Kasper put me on to Diana Henry's new cookbook, Plenty. I couldn't resist a book with such a beguiling subtitle on it's cover: "Good, uncomplicated food for the sustainable kitchen. With over 300 recipes, none of them extravagant." So, I indulged myself and ordered the book. I wasn't disappointed. Henry has wonderful recipes for using up the leftovers from roasts and other recipes for vegetables as a main course. Her directions are clear and easy to follow. I like this book and will be referring to it often as I seek to expand my repertoire of creative leftovers and new vegetable dishes.

Shepherd's Pie is one of favorite ways to use leftover lamb and I thought Henry's version of it sounded absolutely delicious. It was and now this version will become be listed among the family favorites.

MIDDLE EASTERN SHEPHERD'S PIE WITH SPICED PARSNIP CRUST

(serves 6)

For the Meat

1. 5 tablespoons olive oil
2. 1 3/4 pound leftover cooked lamb, cut in small chunks
3. 2 onions, coarsely chopped
4. 2 celery salks, finely chopped
5. 2 carrots, diced
6. 6 garlic cloves, curshed
7. 2 teaspoons ground cumin
8. 2 teaspoons ground pumpkin pie spice
9. 1 tablespoon ground cinamon
10. 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
11. 1 1/4 cups chicken or lamb stock
12. grated zest and juice of 1 orange
13. 1/2 cup raisins, soaked in boiling water for 15 minutes and drained
14. 6 tablespoons tomato past
15. 1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

 

For the Parsnip Crust

1. 1 pound floury potatoes, cut into even chunks
2. 2 pounds parsnips, chopped
3. 3 tablespoons butter
4. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
5. 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper*
6. 1/4 cup whipping cream
7. salt and pepper

* I don't think you need this much cayenne. I find that a little of this spice goes a long way.

For the Spiced Onion topping

1. 2 onions, very thinly sliced
2. 1 tablespoon butter
3. 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil
4. 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
5. 1 fresh red chile, seded and thinly sliced
6. 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
7. good squeeze of lemon juice
8. small bunch cilantro, or mint, coarsely chopped

 

Heat the oil in a large skillet and brown the lamb. Transfer the lamb to a bowl. In the same pan cook the onions, celery, and carrots until golden. Ad the garlic and spices and cook for 1 minute. Put the lamb back and add the flour Stir for 1 minute, then add the stock, zest, juice, raisins, and tomato paste. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring. Add the pine nuts.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Boil the potatoes and the parsnips separately until soft. Drain the potatoes and keep them in the saucepan in which they were cooked Put a cloth towel on top, then cover with a lid. Let these sit for a few minutes over a very low heat to dry out. Drain the parsnips and add the potatoes. Heat the butter in a large saucepan with the spices. Add the potatoes, parsnips and mash, adding the cream and seasoning.

Spoon the lamb into a pie dish, spread the mash on top, and put into the oven for 20-25 minutes until golden. Meanwhile, fry the onions for the topping in the butter and oil until golden. Increase the heat and allow some to become crisp. Add the cinnamon, chile, salt, pepper and sugar. Cook until slightly caramelized. Squeeze on some lemon juice and mix in the herbs. Pile the onions on the pie and serve.

Favorite Cookbooks of 2009

 CANAL HOUSE COOKING

I have written about Canal House Cooking before ( click here for my first review) and I am just as enthusiastic now as I was in August. It is a brilliant idea to do a book as a subscription. The authors can focus on each season and include new favorites as they discover or remember them. Their work says fresh and so does ours. This is hands-down my choice for CookBook of the Year.

 CLAY POT COOKERY

CLAY POT COOKERY combines two of my favorite things on this earth-cooking and pottery. I've been collecting pottery ever since I started working. I've been known to eat a lot of peanut butter in order to get a pot that I just couldn't live without. Then the next month I would be cooking something utterly delicious in it. Delayed gratification made the food taste that much better. Wolfert maintains that food cooked in clay tastes better--more alive. I've also collected Paula Wolfert's books from the time when both she and I were much younger. So, you can see why this book was a must for me. She has recipes from many different cuisines in this book and she recommends the pot to match the food. I've marked several recipes to try. From past experience with her cookbooks, I know that anything in here will be fabulous.

 MY NEW ORLEANS.THE COOKBOOK

John Besh has wonderful restaurants in New Orleans and I'm delighted that he has finally published a cookbook. If you've been reading this blog for a while you know how much I love New Orleans and its food. My New Orleans is filled with stories of the people, places and food which make this city such a popular culinary destination. Even if you never cook a single recipe from this book you will enjoy reading it. Besh's stories have renewed my hunger for the wonderful Cajun and Creole food of New Orleans and, undoubtedly, I will be cooking some of his food. 

It's usually hard to pick my favorite books of the year, but these three were standouts and the choice was relatively easy. You won't go wrong if you add any one of these to your collection.

Canal House Cooking Does it Again

A few days ago I received  the  second volume of my subscription to Canal House Cooking. If possible, this may be even better than the first volume.(Click here to read my review of volume 1.) In this issue they focus on Fall and The Holidays. I've already tried two of the recipes and they are both keepers--things I want to make again and include in our list of "Family Favorites." 

I've always enjoyed endive in salads, but for some reason have never braised it. This simple recipe inspired me to try it and I'm a convert for life. What a wonderful vegetable. The slightly bitter quality of raw endive is transformed into an endearing sweetness and the crunch into a silky, tender mouth-feel. I paired this with lamb chops and the match worked. What you want to serve it with is limited only by your imagination.

BRAISED ENDIVE

• 4 tablespoons butter
  
• 6 Belgian Endives
  
• Salt and pepper
  
• 1 cup chicken stock
  

Melt three tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the endives to the skillet, season with salt and pepper, and cook for a few minutes, turning them as they brown. Reduce heat to low and add stock. Cover and braise, turning endives now and then, until tender, 30-40 minutes.[I found that only 15 minutes of cooking was needed.] Uncover the skillet, increase heat to medium-high and cook for a minute to reduce any pan juices. Swirl in the remaining tablespoon of butter. Taste for seasoning.