Bear Cuisine

Dinner Rolls a la Manoir

One of my new favorite cookbooks, A Table in the Tarn, had this wonderful recipe for dinner rolls. They are easy to make and will have your guest "ooing and ahing" over your talents as a bread baker. I used a combination of regular  and white whole wheat flours.

DINNER ROLLS

(makes 24-30, depending on size)

softened

• walnut-size piece fresh yeast (I used one teaspoon SAF yeast.)
• 1 1/4 cups milk, warm ( boiled, cooled and skimmed)
• 1 1/2 teaspoon salt
  
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 1 large egg
• 4 cups flour, half all-purpose, half bread flour
• 1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter,

Mix the yeast, milk and sugar then beat in the egg. Put the flours and 1 1/2 teaspoon salt in mixer bowl and beat in the milk mixture with the machine running for minute,then add the butter. Switch to the dough hook and knead for 4 minutes. Leave to rise until doubled in size--up to 2 hours.

Line 2 baking sheets wit parchment paper. Punch the dough down lightly, leave it for 5 minutes to recover. Turn on to a lightly floured work surface. Shape into a 9-inch square, then fold in 3 like a letter. Use your hands with a backward and forward rolling motion to shape the dough into an 18-inch cylinder.

To make round rolls, cut off and weigh pieces of dough  of 1 1/2 ounces. then roll each one into neat ball and place on the baking sheets.

Triangular rolls are made by first shaping the dough into a very long, thin cylinder, roll the dough as above, but keep going patently until you have a yard-long cylinder Staring at one end, and alternating the knife 45 degrees to left and right, cut the sausage into 1 1/2 inch triangles. You should have about 24. Place on baking sheets.

Cover the rolls with a light tea towel and let the rolls rise for 45 minutes to an hour. Bake at 375 degrees  until they are pale gold. Switch the position of the baking sheets after 7 minutes so that the rolls will cook evenly.

Pain Poilane

 

Lionel Poilane was probably the most famous baker in the world. Coming to Paris without stopping by his bakery is like not visiting the Louvre. Your trip just isn't complete. Lionel died in a plane crash in 2002, but his daughter is carrying on the family business. The demi-baguettes we tried on this trip weren't anything to write home about, but that is in the nature of the type of bread the bakery is known for. The product can be uneven. When it is good, it is very, very good and when it is bad, it is dry and tasteless. Patricia Wells provides a recipe for Poilane's Natural Sourdough Bread in her The Food Lover's Guide to Paris. 

The first loaf takes a long time to make, but she assures us that it is worth the trouble.

PAIN POILANE AU LEVAIN NATUREL

Sourdough Starter

• 1 cup (25cl) water at room temperature
  
• 2 cups (280 g) bread flour
  

The Final Loaf

• 3 cups (75cl) water at room temperature
  
• 1 tablespoon fine sea salt
  
• 5 1/2 to 6 cups (980 g to 1.12 kg) bread flour
  

1.Days 1 to 4: Prepare the starter. In a small bowl combine 1/4 cup (6.5 cl) of the water and 1/2 cup (70 g) of the flour and stir until the water absorbs all the flour and forms a soft dough. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead into a smooth ball. It should be fairly soft and sticky. Return the starter to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 24 hours. The starter should rise slightly and take on a faintly acidic aroma. Repeat this for 3 more days, each day adding another 1/4 cup (6.5 cl) water and 1/2 cup (70 g) flour. Each day the starter should rise slightly and should become more acidic.

2. Day 5: Now you are ready to make the bread. Transfer the starter to a large, shallow bowl. Add the 3 cups (75 cl) water and the 1 tablespoon salt. Using a wire whisk, stir for about 1 minute to thoroughly dissolve the starter. Add the flour, a bit at a time, stirring well after each addition. After you have added about 5 cups (650 g) of flour, the dough should be firm enough to knead. Lightly flour a large, clean work surface, and transfer the dough to the floured surface. Begin kneading, at first folding the dough over itself to incorporate air (it may actually be too soft to knead), add additional flour until the dough is nicely elastic and soft, but still firm enough to hold itself in ball. Knead for a full 10 minutes. (Set a timer, to be sure there's no cheating!)

3. Before you form the loaf, reserve the starter: Pinch off a handful of dough, about 1 cup (250 g), to set aside for the next loaf. Transfer this starter to a medium-size covered container.* Shape the remaining dough into a tight ball by folding it over itself. Place a large floured cloth in a round shallow bowl or basket--one about 10 inches (25.5 cm) side works well--and place the dough, smooth (top)side down, in the cloth lined bowl or basket. Loosely fold the cloth over the dough. Set aside at room temperature for 6 to 12 hours.  The dough will rise very slowly, but a good loaf should just about double in size.

4. At least 40 minutes before placing the dough in the oven, preheat--with a baking stone--to 500 degrees F (260 degrees C).

5. Lightly flour a baking peel or padding (or a flat baking sheet) invert the loaf onto the peel, and slash the top of the bread several times with a razor blade to a depth of about 1/4 inch (7mm) so that it can expand evenly during baking. With a quick jerk of the wrists, propel the bread onto the baking stone. Spray the bottom and side of the oven with water. Spray 3 more times during the next 6 minutes. (the spray will help give the loaf a good crust, and will give the dough a boost during rising.) The bread will rise very slowly reaching its full height during the first 15 minutes of baking Once the bread begins to brown nicely--after about 15 minutes--reduce the heat to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C) and continue baking until the crust is a deep golden brown and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped, 35 to 35 minutes total. Transfer to a baking rack to cool.

6.Do not slice the bread for at least 1 hour, for it will continue to bake as it rests. For best results, store the bread in a paper or cloth bag once it is thoroughly cool. Plastic will tend to soften the dense crust you worked so hard to create. The bread should stay fresh for 3 to 4 days.

*After you have made your first loaf and have saved the starter, begin at step 2 for subsequent loaves. Proceed through the rest of the recipe, always remembering to save about 1 cup of the starter. The starter may be stored at room temperature (in a covered plastic container or in a bowl covered with a damp cloth) for 1 or 2 days or refrigerated for up to 1 week. Reactivate the starter every week by adding 1/4 cup (6.5 cl) water and 1/2 cup (70 g) flour. Do not use more than 1 cup (250 g) of starter per loaf. If refrigerated, remove the starter from the refrigerator at least 2 hours before preparing the dough. 

 

Bruschette with Sauteed Greens and Fava Bean Puree

These make a wonderful appetizer or first course for a meal with Italian accents. Another winner from Christine Hickman.

BRUSCHETTE WITH FAVA BEAN PUREE AND SAUTEED GREENS

Bread Toasts (Bruschette and Crostini)

For the bruschette, use a rustic loaf, chewy and preferably full of whole grains, made without sweetening. for the crostini, use a good quality French bread with a crisp crust.

• Cloves of garlic, peeled and split
  
• Full-flavored extra-virgin olive oil
  
• Salt
  
• Pinch of hot red pepper flakes
  

Slice the bread about 1/2-inch thick. Toast the bread slices over a wood fire, grill it on top of the stove, or toast it under the broiler.

Rub it with garlic and moisten lightly with the olive oil. Sprinkle each slice with a little salt, and red pepper flakes. When making bruschette, you may choose to cut each slice into 3 or 4 pieces.

Serve immediately, with or without a topping of choice.

Fava Bean Puree

• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped
  
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary or thyme
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 19-ounce can fava beans, drained and rinsed; should yield 2 cups
  
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  

Place a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1/4 cup of the oil, the garlic, rosemary or thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Cook until the garlic begins to sizzle and the aromatics are fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the drained fava beans and stir until the beans are well coated and heated through, adding just a bit of water if necessary to prevent sticking.

Transfer the beans to a food processor. Add the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil and the lemon juice and puree until smooth, stopping to scrape the bowl as needed.

Season to taste with more salt and lemon juice. Serve on toasts or as a dip.

Makes about 2 cups.

The puree will stiffen a bit after it sits. If using as dip, you may wish to ad a spoonful of water to loosen it. The puree will, covered in the refrigerator, for up to 3 days.

Sauteed Greens

• 1 pound winter greens, such as curly endive, spinach, escarole, kale, chard, beet or mustard
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large garlic cloves, slivered
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash and coarsely chop the greens. Set aside.

Place the olive oil and garlic in a large saute pan over medium heat. Warm it slowly until it is fragrant.

Turn the heat to high and quickly add the greens, sauteing until thoroughly wiled and cooked through. Season with salt and pepper.

Lover and set aside to keep warm or serve immediately.

Makes about 2 cups.

To assemble the bruschette: spread a layer of bean puree on each read toast, top with a hep of sauteed greens and drizzle with olive oil.

Serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8

Indian Taco

Every year at the State Fair we eagerly chow down on an Indian Taco. This is usually the only time we have one of these unless we get to one of the pueblo feast days in the summer or early fall. What makes this in an Indian Taco is the frybread. And hot frybread is  a real treat.

INDIAN TACO

FRYBREAD

• 3 cups flour
  
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
  
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
  
• 1/2 cup powdered milk
  
• Oil or shortening for frying
  

Mix all the dry ingredients together. Add warm water to the mixture until the consistency is pliable but not sticky. Kneed the dough until it begins to fight back; roll into 3-inch balls. Roll the balls of dough until they are thin, but without holes or tears. 

Heat the oil to 375 degrees. When the oil has reached the proper temperature, punch a hole in the center of the dough and place in the oil. Cook until golden brown, turning once during the cooking.

Now the bread is ready for the toppings to make it a taco.

INDIAN TACO

• 1 cup freshly cooked pinto beans
  
• 1/4 lb. cooked hamburger meat
  
• 1 cup red or green chile sauce
  
• 1 cup of shredded Monterey Jack cheese
  
• 2 diced tomatoes
  
• 2 cups diced lettuce
  
• chopped onions
  
• frybread
  

Take one frybread and layer the ingredients. Begin first with the beans, then the hamburger and add the chile sauce. Then add lettuce, onion and top with cheese.

You can easily make this vegetarian by leaving out the hamburger. If you do, increase the pinto beans to 2 cups.

One taco can serve 2 people.

Stove Top Biscuits

It was Sunday morning; our oven wasn't working. What to do? James Villas to the rescue with his recipe for biscuits cooked on top of the stove.

OLD-FASHIONED STOVETOP BISCUITS

(makes about 1 dozen biscuits)

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
  
• 4 teaspoons baking powder
  
• 1 teaspoon salt
  
• 1/4 cup chilled lard, cut into bits
  
• 1 cup whole milk
  
• 1/4 cup lard for frying
  

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the chilled lard and cut it in with a pastry cutter or rub with your fingertips till the mixture is meal. Add the milk ad mix till the dough is smooth. Pinch off 12 pieces of dough of equal size, form each piece into a ball, and flatten the balls with your hands to about 1/4 inch thick.

2. In a medium-size cast-iron skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the lard over medium-low heat, add half the flattened balls, fry till both sides of the biscuits are browned, about 12 minutes in all, and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining 2 tablespoons lard and the remaining dough balls. Serve hot.

FYI: 1 tablespoon of lard contains 12 mg. of cholesterol versus 33 mg. in the same quantity of butter.

(James Villas. Biscuit Bliss. Boston, MA.:The Harvard Common Press, 2004)

Some of these disappeared before I could get a picture of them.