Bear Cuisine

A New Gadget for a New Year

Actually, this is a gadget that is much more than a gadget and I have been using it for almost a year with splendid results. It's an immersion circulator that makes it possible to do sous vide cooking at home. Sous vide is a French term meaning "under pressure" or "under vacuum." Food is placed in vacuum sealed packages and cooked at a constant temperature in water that is heated by an the circulator. After it is cooked, it can be refrigerated for later use or finished for serving. This technique was used previously by restaurants and caterers for large batch cooking were prepping before service was essential. Now, the technique is available to home cooks and I think it is a terrific tool.

I have had an immersion circulator before, but it was so large and bulky and required such a large pot to cook in that I almost never used it. Joule changed all that. Joule is a small device that clips to the side of any pot and it makes sous vide cooking not only possible,  but pleasurable. Joule was developed and is marketed by ChefSteps,Inc and their web site has any number of recipes for using Joule. You run the tool with your I-Phone or I-Pad; so, a wireless connection is a must. 

I have used it to cook amazing salmon; the texture is beautifully silky. It makes a perfect medium-rare steak. I have even cooked the Thanksgiving turkey with it. This is set and forget it cooking with spectacular results.

To get started I recommend two books for your library: Beginning Sous Vide by Jason Logsdon and Sous-Vide at Home by Lisa Q. Fetterman.

We always want to eat well, but I don't always want to spend a lot of time cooking. This very nifty tool lets me achieve both goals which on the face of it are contradictory. So, treat yourself to a Joule and have fun in the kitchen.

Gritty Reality

I don't know when exactly my love affair with grits began. It wasn't in childhood. My mother, as I have noted elsewhere, was a dyed-in-the-wool Yankee and no grits ever graced one of her menus or our plates. So,I'm thinking that I fell in love with grits on a trip through the South when I was in college. That's still a long time ago.The first taste of grits with sweet butter was a primal experience and the start of a true love. And this love has lasted a lot longer than other affairs I have entertained.

According to many pundits,corn is the foundation of southern cooking  and Bill Neal and David Perry go on to say,"...if corn is the foundation, corn grits is the mortar that holds it all together. " (from the Introduction to Good Old Grits Cookbook) Grits souffles are a staple of southern cooking and I have made my share of them over the years. One of the best side dishes using grits I have ever had comes from Martha Phelps Stamps cookbook, Martha's at the Plantation. This recipe for Baked Cheese Grits makes a dish so light that you don't even know you're eating carbs.

Baked Cheese Grits

BAKED CHEESE GRITS

(serves 5 to 6)

1. 2 cups cream
2. 2 cups water
3. 1 tsp salt
4. 1/2 tsp white pepper
5. 1 cup yellow grits or polenta
6. 2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
7. 1/2 cup buttermilk
8. 2 eggs, beaten
9. 1/2 teaspoon garlic

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a two-quart baking dish.

In a medium sauce pan, bring the cream and water to a boil with the salt and white pepper. Add the grits or polenta, whisking. Cook over medium heat until thickened. Remove from the heat and add the cheese, mixing well to a smooth, creamy consistency. Add the buttermilk, then the eggs and mix well.

Pour into the baking dish and place in the center of the preheated oven. Bake until puffed and golden brown, approximately 30 minutes.

 

I have used white grits; the dish still tastes fabulous. I have also used cheddar cheese instead of Parmesan and while the taste is somewhat different, the consistency is not affected.  This makes a terrific side for any roast .

 

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Is this the best one yet?

When the girls were still little, Mac 'n Cheese was absolutely their favorite meal. It was a supper they looked forward to and it was one I knew  wouldn't bring a chorus of "What's this?" We liked it too and every now and again when we are in need of culinary comfort I will make it just for us. This particular version is adapted from a recipe developed by Ira Freehof* for his Comfort Diners in New York. I made it more adult by adding some x-rated green chile. The proportions make a creamy mac and cheese with a lovely crunchy top.

Comfort Diner Mac and Cheese with Green Chile

 

COMFORT DINER MAC AND CHEESE with a New Mexican twist

(serves 6)

1. 4 TBS plus 1 tsp butter, plus a bit more for the baking dish
2. 1 pound penne rigate (the original called for elbow macaroni)
3. 1 TBS olive oil
4. 3 1/2 cups whole milk
5. 1/4 cup flour
6. 1 cup grated Swiss cheese (the original asked for American cheese)
7. 1 cup grated Italian Fontina cheese
8. Kosher salt
9. Freshly ground black pepper
10. 2 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
11. 1-2 cups chopped NM green chile
12. 1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
13. 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch square baking dish.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat and cook the macaroni until al dente. Drain and rinse with cool water. Place in a large mixing bowl and drizzle with the olive oil.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, warm the milk.

In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter. sprinkle in the flour and whisk constantly until the flour is absorbed and the mixture is bubbling gently and lightly golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually add the warm milk, whisking continuously. Raise the heat to medium and bring to a simmer, stirring with a wooden spoon until smooth and slightly thickened.

Add the Swiss and Fontina cheeses; remove the pot from the heat. Whisk the mixture until the cheese is almost completely melted. Stir in the salt, pepper, mustard and green chile. Pour the sauce over the macaroni and stir to combine. Transfer to the prepared baking dish.

In a small bowl, combine the shredded Cheddar and the bread crumbs; sprinkle evenly over the macaroni. Cut the remaining teaspoon of butter into small bits and dot the casserole. Bake on the middle shelf until bubbling and a crust begins to form, 20 to 25 minutes.

 The jury is out on whether this is the best mac and cheese, but it is very, very good.

 

*This and other Mac and Cheese recipes are found in Joan Schwartz's Macaroni & Cheese.

 

Kimchiminee,Kimchiminee,Kimchimchiree

Chef Johnny Vee of Las Cosas Cooking School has fallen in love with the latest Korean cookbook, Koreatown.  He shared his new love in a recent class using recipes from Koreatown which is the brainchild of Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard. Hong and Rodbard travled throughout the U.S. documenting meals and conversations withe cooks and owners of Korean restaurants . The result is a fascinating glimpse into an Asian food culture that not many round-eyes know much about.  I can see why Johnny is smitten.

Johnny Vee

 

There is more to Korean food that its famous fried chicken, but the book gives us the secret for the fabulous crispy chicken--a secret I was very happy to learn and pass on.

"Many have said that frying the chicken twice achieves a next-level crunch, which we aren't going to deny.But the real key is the batter.Ours uses soju, which inhibits gluten formation and keeps the batter light. If you have a little extra time, we highly recommend partially frying the chicken, then freezing it for at least 2 hours before a second fry."

Dakgangjeong

KOREATOWN FRIED CHICKEN

(serves 4)

1. 8 cups vegetable oil
2. 2 pounds chicken wings or thighs
3. 1/2 cup cornstarch
4. 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
5. 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
6. 1 teaspoon kosher salt
7. 1/2 cup soju or vodka
8. 1/2 cup ice-cold water
9. Soy Garlic Glaze
10. 1/4 cup sliced scallions

Heat the vegetable oil over low heat in a heavy pot or Dutch oven with high sides until the oil registers 350 degrees F on a frying thermometer.  If you are using chicken wings cut through the joints between the wings and drumettes to separate them.

In a medium bowl. whisk together the cornstarch, all-purpose flour, baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, soju and cold water. Dip chicken parts in batter until every coated, shaking off excess batter and place on a try.

Set up a tray lined with paper towels. Raise the heat and medium-high and maintain the oil at 350 degrees F. Carefully, lower the chicken into the oil, as many pieces as will comfortably fit and fry for 8 to 10 minutes until golden brown and cooked through. With a heatproof slotted spoon, remove the chicken pieces and drain them o the paper-towel-lined tray. Immediately season with salt. While still hot, toss the chicken in a large bowl with just enough glaze to coat. Garnish with scallions and serve immediately.

SOY GARLIC GLAZE

(makes enough for 1 batch of fried chicken)

1. 1/4 cup Korean rice or corn syrup
2. 1/4 cup soy sauce
3. 2 garlic cloves,minced
4. 1 TBS mirin
5. 1 TBS sesame oil

Combine corn syrup, soy sauce, garlic and mirin in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 1 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in sesame oil. Hold until ready to use.

This is fabulous fried chicken. Maybe the best I've ever had. Maybe.

 

 

 

Cooking Without a Book

Years ago Tom Collichio (most recently of Top Chef fame) wrote a book, Think Like a Chef. He wrote the book, in part, to encourage aspiring cooks to think about food in creative ways that did not depend on slavishly following recipes.Part of that creativity rests on learning fundamental techniques so well that you don't have to think about them. They are there in your skill set waiting for you to draw upon them as you think about preparing each meal. Pam Anderson tried to do the same thing in book, How To Cook Without a Book.(Click here for remarks on this wonderful work.) My latest effort at mastering fundamental techniques took place in the just-completed Professional Cook's Certification Course from Rouxbe. One of the things I was really happy to learn was how to make a roux-based soup which is simply a soup that is thickened with a roux. These are often called cream soups because they are the consistency of heavy cream, but do not have to made with cream or milk.

A roux-based soup is composed  of 5 essential ingredients: flour, fat,main vegetable,liquid (milk or stock) and the mirepoix or aromatics

The first component is fat. Butter is very commonly used and will add richness to the dish. Olive oil will add earthy or fruity notes and bacon fat can add a smoky taste to the finished product. The second essential element is a starch, most commonly flour. The two cooked together create the roux which will thicken your soup. The formula to remember here is that 1 TBS of fat + 1 TBS of flour will thicken 1 cup of liquid.

The third essential element is the liquid which can be milk, broth ,stock or any combination of  flavorful liquids.Since you are building flavor with every step of the process it is important to use a flavorful liquid. Sometimes,however, it is a good idea to dilute the stock with a some water so that the the flavor of the vegetable won't be overwhelmed. This is where knowledge about your ingredients and practice come into play.

The fourth component is usually a non or low-starch vegetable. The vegetable should be washed, trimmed and cut into even-sized pieces. Smaller pieces allow the vegetables to cook much faster and the shorter cooking time will help to preserve color and maintain flavor during cooking. A general guideline to keep in mind is that 1 cup of chopped vegetables will flavor 1 cup of liquid.

The final element is the mirepoix that will used to build the flavor profile of the soup. These ingredients should complement the primary ingredient in flavor and not overpower it. You will need approximately 2-4 TBS for every cup of soup. The aromatics should be cut small so that they cook evenly and blend into the soup.  The final formula for this type of soup is:

1 TBS fat+ !1TBS flour + 1 cup liquid +1 cup vegetables + 2-4 TBS mirepoix= 1 1/2 to 2 cups of soup.

The texture of the finished soup can be left chunky for a rustic character or it can be blended for a smooth, elegantly creamy soup. The final soup should have a consistency like heavy cream, a nice sheen,and coat the back of a spoon.

The following recipe for Cream of Broccoli Soup puts these soup-making principles into practice. Once you have made this a few times you won't need a recipe to make whatever creamy soup you desire. You will be able to Think Like a Chef.

Cream of Broccoli Soup garnished with Cheddar Cheese

 

CREAM OF BROCCOLI SOUP

(serves 4)

1. 3/4 cup onions, finely diced
2. 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3. 4 cups broccoli, chopped
4. 4 TBS butter
5. 4 TBS all-purpose flour
6. 4 cups stock (chicken or vegetable)
7. Salt and Freshly ground black pepper to taste
8. 1/2 cup cream (optional)
9. Garnish (optional)

 

Peel the broccoli stems and cut them into small,even pieces.Set aside.Chop the florets into small, even pieces and place them in a separate bowl. Measure out the butter, flour and liquid. Set aside.

melt the butter in a medium-sized pot over medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic, along with a pinch of salt. Gently sweat until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes.

Add the broccoli stems and stir to coat with the fat. Continue to sweat for a few minutes until somewhat softened.

Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir to combine. Temper in the liquid, a bit at a time. turn the heat up to medium and bring the soup to a simmer. Stir often to make sure the bottom does not scorch.

Once the stems are nearly tender, add the florets along with a good pinch of salt. Let the soup gently simmer until the florets are tender and cooked all the way through. Once the florets are tender, add salt and pepper to taste.

You can serve the soup as is and finish it by adding the cream in increments. The cream is optional.

You can also blend the soup in a blender until  smooth. You will need to do this batches. Return the soup to a clean pot and bring to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper and temper in the cream if you are using it. Serve in warmed bowls.