Bear Cuisine

Lamb Shanks Rogan Josh

The calendar may say that spring is here, but winter has yet to completely loosen its iron grip. Braised dishes can still fill the house  with fabulous aromas and warm our souls. This dish is from Daniel Bouloud in his cookbook, Braise. It combines some of my favorite spices with the lovely, unctuous flavor of lamb shanks.

LAMB SHANKS ROGAN JOSH

(serves 6)

1. 12 green carmon pods
2. 10 black peppercorns
3. 10 white peppercorns
4. 3 whole allspice
5. 2 whole cloves
6. 2 tablespoons Indian paprika or sweet paprika
7. 1 tablespoon kosher salt
8. 1 1/2 teaspons cumin seeds
9. 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
10. 2 3-inch cinnamon sticks or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
11. 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
12. 1 bay leaf
13. 6 lamb shanks (about 3/4 to 1 pound each)
14. 5 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil
15. 3 red bell peppers, cored and seeded: 1 diced; 2 sliced into 1/4-inch-thick strips
16. 6 garlic cloves, peeled
17. 1/2 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
18. 2 tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger root
19. 2 medium oions, peeled, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
20. 1/2 teaspoon garam masala

The day before you want to serve the dish, use a spice grinder to finely grind the cardamom, black and white peppercorns, allspice, cloves, paprika, salt, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cayenne and bay leaf. Place the shanks in a nonreative container such as a Pyrex bowl and rub with 2 tablespoons of the oil and then with the spice mixture. Cover the shanks tightly with plastic wrap and let marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

Using a food processor or blender, blend 1/3 cup water with the diced red bell pepper, garlic, yogurt and ginger root until smooth.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.

In a medium saucepan, bring 3 cups water to a boil and keep at a slow, steady simmer.

Warm the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large cast iron pot over medium-high heat. Add the shanks to the pot and sear, adjusting the heat and turning the meat so that the spices do not burn, until golden brown on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a plate

Add the sliced red bell peppers and onions to the pot and cook, stirring, until the vegetables begin to sofrten but do not brown, about 5 minutes. Return the browned lamb to the pot, stir in the bell pepper-yogurt mixture and sprinkle the garam masala on top. Pour in the hot water and bring to a simmer.

Cover the pot, transfer it to the oven and braise for 2 1/2 hours, turning the shans twice while cooking.*

* I cooked these in a slow cooker on the low setting for 5 hours. They turned out perfectly.

Serve with Lemon-Coriander Basmatic Pilaf.

Middle Eastern Shepherd's Pie with Spiced Parsnip Crust

 

Lynn Rosetto Kasper put me on to Diana Henry's new cookbook, Plenty. I couldn't resist a book with such a beguiling subtitle on it's cover: "Good, uncomplicated food for the sustainable kitchen. With over 300 recipes, none of them extravagant." So, I indulged myself and ordered the book. I wasn't disappointed. Henry has wonderful recipes for using up the leftovers from roasts and other recipes for vegetables as a main course. Her directions are clear and easy to follow. I like this book and will be referring to it often as I seek to expand my repertoire of creative leftovers and new vegetable dishes.

Shepherd's Pie is one of favorite ways to use leftover lamb and I thought Henry's version of it sounded absolutely delicious. It was and now this version will become be listed among the family favorites.

MIDDLE EASTERN SHEPHERD'S PIE WITH SPICED PARSNIP CRUST

(serves 6)

For the Meat

1. 5 tablespoons olive oil
2. 1 3/4 pound leftover cooked lamb, cut in small chunks
3. 2 onions, coarsely chopped
4. 2 celery salks, finely chopped
5. 2 carrots, diced
6. 6 garlic cloves, curshed
7. 2 teaspoons ground cumin
8. 2 teaspoons ground pumpkin pie spice
9. 1 tablespoon ground cinamon
10. 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
11. 1 1/4 cups chicken or lamb stock
12. grated zest and juice of 1 orange
13. 1/2 cup raisins, soaked in boiling water for 15 minutes and drained
14. 6 tablespoons tomato past
15. 1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

 

For the Parsnip Crust

1. 1 pound floury potatoes, cut into even chunks
2. 2 pounds parsnips, chopped
3. 3 tablespoons butter
4. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
5. 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper*
6. 1/4 cup whipping cream
7. salt and pepper

* I don't think you need this much cayenne. I find that a little of this spice goes a long way.

For the Spiced Onion topping

1. 2 onions, very thinly sliced
2. 1 tablespoon butter
3. 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil
4. 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
5. 1 fresh red chile, seded and thinly sliced
6. 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
7. good squeeze of lemon juice
8. small bunch cilantro, or mint, coarsely chopped

 

Heat the oil in a large skillet and brown the lamb. Transfer the lamb to a bowl. In the same pan cook the onions, celery, and carrots until golden. Ad the garlic and spices and cook for 1 minute. Put the lamb back and add the flour Stir for 1 minute, then add the stock, zest, juice, raisins, and tomato paste. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring. Add the pine nuts.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Boil the potatoes and the parsnips separately until soft. Drain the potatoes and keep them in the saucepan in which they were cooked Put a cloth towel on top, then cover with a lid. Let these sit for a few minutes over a very low heat to dry out. Drain the parsnips and add the potatoes. Heat the butter in a large saucepan with the spices. Add the potatoes, parsnips and mash, adding the cream and seasoning.

Spoon the lamb into a pie dish, spread the mash on top, and put into the oven for 20-25 minutes until golden. Meanwhile, fry the onions for the topping in the butter and oil until golden. Increase the heat and allow some to become crisp. Add the cinnamon, chile, salt, pepper and sugar. Cook until slightly caramelized. Squeeze on some lemon juice and mix in the herbs. Pile the onions on the pie and serve.

Moussaka

 

I just couldn't stop buying eggplants this summer. I had a vegetable bin full of them when I happened on this David Rosengarten recipe. This is without doubt absoutely the best moussaka I have ever made or tasted. It is wonderfully light, not greasy at all. This will change all of your old ideas about this dish and bring it back to your table.

MOUSSAKA

1. 3 large eggplants
2. Olive Oil
3. 2 pounds ground lamb
4. 2 large onions, chopped
5. 4 garlic cloves, chopped
6. 2 teaspoons dried oregano
7. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
8. 1/2 cup dry red wine
9. 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
10. 2 (14 1/2- ounce) can chopped tomatoes, undrained
11. 1/4 cup chopped parsley
12. 4 tablespoons butter
13. 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
14. 3 cups milk
15. 1/4 teaspoon fresly grated nutmeg
16. 6 large eggs, separated
17. 1/2 cup dried bread crumbs
18. 1 cup grated peccorino Romano cheese

 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Rub eggplants with a little olive oil and prick several times with a fork. Place on a sheet pan and roast, turning every 5 minutes or so, until soft, about 20 to 25 minutes. Cool, then slice into 1/2 inch thick rounds crosswise.

Heat a large skillet over high heat and add a little of the olive oil. Brown the eggplant slices in batches on both sides. You will use about 4 tablespoons of olive oil altogether. Drain slices on paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile in a large saucepan heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the lamb, crumbling with a wooden spoon as it cooks. Cook until well-browned, about 10 minutes.

In the same pan, add the onions and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the grlic, oregano and cinnamon; blend well and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Increase heat to high and add the wine and vinegar. Boil until liquid is reduced by half. Add the tomatoes and parsley, return to a simmer and cook 20 minutes.

Make bechemel sauce. In another large saucepan, melt the 4 tablespoons of butter over low heat. When melted, add the flour and stir to form a smooth paste. cook, stirring until raw flour smell is gone, about 2 to 3 minutes. Increase heat to medium and slowly add the milk, whisking to keep smooth. Bring bechamel sauce to a simmmer, add nutmeg and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes Cool slightly.

Place egg yolks in a large bowl and beat. Whisk in about 1/2 cup of the cooled bechamel sauce in a slow, steady stream. Add the remaining bechamel in a slightly faster stream, whisking constantly.

Whip egg whites until soft peaks form Gently fold egg whites into yolk-bechamel mixture.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Assemble the dish. Select a large baking pan that is roughly 12 1/2x9x2 inches. Layer as follows

• one-third bread crumbs
• one-third eggplant slices (in one layer, overlapping slightly)
• one-third cheese
• one-third bread crumbs
• one-half tomato sauce
• one-third eggplant slices
• one-half bechamel
• one-third cheese
• one-third bread crumbs
• one-half tomato sauce
• one-third eggplant slices
• one-half bechamel
• one-third cheese

You will need to create a foil exension of the sides of your pan to rise above the pan, so the egg whites in the bechamel can puff up as much as possible. Manipulate long pieces of heavy duty aluminum foil, wrapping them around the pan so they stand 2 inches above the top rim of the pan on all sides. Secure foil around the pan with a large rubber band or utility tape. Brush lip of foil with melted butter all around. Plan pan in the oven and bake 40 to 45 minutes, until top is browned and bechamel is set. Cool at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Carving a Leg of Lamb

Even in the blistering heat of a southwestern summer, a roasted leg of lamb can be a great dinner. Outdoor grills were made to cook such delights. While we were at La Combe en Perigord, Di Holuigue showed us a very neat and easy way to carve a leg of lamb. My efforts at carving have always been pretty much hit and miss. This method makes it almost foolproof. I don't remember the name of the very cool tool that she used to hold the bone, but I think one could easily make do just by grasping the bone with your hand. Not elegant, but I know it will work.

What could be simpler? And it makes for a very nice presentation on the plate or platter.

Lamb Stew Agrodolce with Olive Salsa

Before we bid farewell to winter, I will offer one more cold weather recipe. This is a simple, but very tasty lamb stew. While it is good by itself, the Olive Salsa makes it better than just good. Christine Hickman

offered this at one of her classes at Las Cosas in Santa Fe this February. Soon she will return to Italy and we have to wait until next fall for more of her insights into Italian regional cooking.

LAMB STEW AGRODOLCE

1. 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2. 3 bay leaves
3. 6 cloves garlic peeled and smashed
4. 3 pounds lamb meat, cut into large cubes
5. Salt to taste
6. Freshly ground black pepper
7. 3/4 cup dry white wine
8. Juice of one lemon
9. 2 teaspoons sugar
10. 2 sprigs fresh parsley

In a large skillet, heat the oil and add the bay leaves and 5 of the garlic cloves. Cook over medium-high heat until the garlic starts to sizzle, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the lamb and cook until browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Do this in batches so that the meat browns and doesn't steam.

If you have separated the meat, return it to the skillet, season with salt and pepper; add the wine.Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet and cook, stirring every once in a while, until the lamb is tender, about 1 1/2 hours. If you should have too much liquid, remove the lid and reduce over high heat.

Add the lemon juice and sugar. Stir well. Chop together the remaining garlic clove and parsley and add to the skillet.

Stir and serve at once with the Olive Salsa.

OLIVE SALSA

(serves 6)

1. 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
2. 1/4 cup chopped mint leaves
3. 1/3 cup cured green olives, pitted and chopped
4. 1/3 cup cured black olives, pitted and chopped
5. 1/3 cup green olives stuffed with pimentos, chopped
6. 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
7. 2 anchovy fillets rinsed and minced
8. 1 large garlic clove inced
9. 5 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
10. Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a small bowl, combine the parsley,mint, olives, lemon juice, optional anchovies, garlic and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.