Bear Cuisine

A Bowl of Comfort

I have loved chowder, especially clam chowder, for as long as I can remember. Its creamy warmth combined with a slightly salty tang and the taste of clams has always been a favorite. So, when we were in Plymouth I made sure to have it as often as I could.

When we returned home,I did a bit of research on chowder, the quintessential New England dish, and found that for  New Englanders this food is as powerful as Proust's madeleine.

"For New Englanders, and those who would be ones, chowder is a sea swell of the soul. A bowl of chowder (never a cup) evokes a forgotten day years ago, a slanted shaft of light on a wooden table, a stove-top pot steaming as the languorous hours of an autumn afternoon drift toward revelation. chowder recalls a breeze-swept shore, a celebration of friends and walkers-by decked out in rain gear and wool, seasoned with salt and sand and shocks of briny kelp.For Henry David Thoreau, chowder was the culmination of a day in his beloved Concord woods; for Herman Melville, it sang of the friendship of unlikely shipmates discovering the "fishiest of all fishy places," a weathered tavern in he byways of Nantucket. A simmering bowl, a shore-side meal, chowder is sustenance in its most elemental form--sustenance of body and mind--a marker of hearth and home, community family and culture. So many liquid shades of recall, chowder charts the shoals and eddies of the New England shore and points the way home." (Robert S. Cox and Jacob Walker. A History of Chowder. Four Centuries of A New England Meal., p. 11)

At home , I tried to recreate the creamy chowder we had enjoyed. The best recipe was in Jasper White's Summer Shack Cookbook.  This recipe may seem involved, but the results are worth whatever effort you have to expend.

CREAMY CAPE COD CLAM CHOWDER

(Makes 3 quarts; serves 12 as an appetizer or 6 to 8 as a main course)

1. 10 pounds small quahogs or large cherry-stone clams
2. 2 cups water
3. 4 ounces meaty salt pork, rind removed and cut into small (1/3-inch) dice
4. 2 TBS unsalted butter
5. 2 medium yellow onions (about 18 ounces), cut into 1/2-inch dice
6. 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
7. 2 stalks celery (4 ounces),cut into 1/3-inch dice
8. 5 t 6 springs fresh thyme, leaves removed and chopped (1 tablespoon)
9. 1 large dried bay leaf
10. 2 pounds Yukon Gold, Maine PEI or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch dice
11. 2 cups heavy ream
12. Freshly ground black pepper
13. Kosher or sea salt if needed
14. 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

All chowders improve after they are made so allow at least an hour from the time the chowder is cooked until it is served. You can make the chowder 1 or 2 days in advance. Reheat it slowly; never let it boil.

 

Scrub the clams and rinse well Place them in a large pot, add the water, cover and turn the heat to high Once you see a little steam escape from the pot let the clams cook for about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and quickly move the clams around in the pot so they will cook evenly, then cover and cook for 5 minutes more, or until the clams open.

Pour off the broth and reserve. After it has settled a bit,strain the broth, leaving the bottom 1/2 inch of broth (and sediment) in the container. You should have about 4 cups. Remove the clams from the shells, place in a bowl, and refrigerate until cold.

Dice the clams into small (1/3- to 1/2-inch) pieces. Cover and refrigerate.

Rinse and dry the pot and heat over low heat. Add the salt pork and cook until crispy and brown. Add the butter, onions, garlic, celery, thyme and bay leaf and saute, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 10 minutes, until the onions are softened but not browned.

Add the potatoes and 4 cups reserved clam broth the broth should just barely cover the potatoes; if it doesn't,add more broth or water. Turn the heat to high, cover the pot, and boil vigorously for about 10 minutes,until the potatoes are soft on the outside but still firm in the center. Smash a few potatoes against the side of the pot and stir them into the chowder to lightly thicken it.

Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the cream and diced clams. Season with black pepper; you may not need salt (the clams usually have enough of their own). If you are serving the chowder within the hour, just let it sit and "cure." Otherwise, let cool to room temperature and refrigerate it; cover it after it has chilled.

When ready to serve, reheat the chowder slowly over medium heat; do not let it boil. Ladle into cups or bowls and sprinkle with the parsley.

 CLAM CHOWDER With Oyster Crackers*

 *Oyster crackers are readily available in most parts of the country, but the more traditional accompaniment is the Common Cracker. Again, Jasper White provides an informative commentary.

"Common crackers are small round crackers (1 to 2 inches in diameter) made with a yeast dough,which gives them a rich flavor and a hollow center. Traditionally they split open with a fork or knife and the halves are then buttered and toasted in the oven (about 15 minutes at 350 degrees F). They are served as a side to chowder adding a much needed crunch. These crackers have been made commercially for more than two hundred years, so nobody really makes them at home anymore. Common crackers, along with the famous Pilot cracker (Nabisco) and "hard bread" of maritime Canada, are deeply rooted in the history of chowder making. They are the descendants of hardtack, or ship's biscuits, which were nothing more than baked bricks made of flour and water.Hardtack was a necessity, because it was the only way that flour would keep from rotting on ships or in damp coastal areas. In early days, crackers were added right into the chowder; as potatoes became popular, the crackers worked their way out of the bowl and onto the side, where they are still served as a crispy garnish for chowders and soups."

If you want to try Common Crackers, check out the Vermont Country Store which will happily send them to you.

 

 

Trey Bien

Here's another great recipe from Trey Corkern. These are considered an appetizer, but I think they could make a perfectly splendid meal. Start with a sazerac and go from there.

Oysters Bienville

Oysters Bienville

1. 1/2 cup butter
2. 4 TBS flour
3. 1 small yellow onion, diced
4. 1 red bell pepper,diced
5. 1 cup diced green onion
6. 2 TBS garlic, minced
7. 2 cups gulf shrimp, rough chopped
8. 2 cups shucked oysters, drained and rough chopped (Reserve the liquor)
9. 1 cup mushrooms rough chopped
10. 1/2 cup white wine
11. 1 TBS lemon juice
12. 1/4 cup cream
13. 1 cup Panko bread crumbs
14. 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
15. 1 cup oyster liquor
16. 12 oyster shells
17. 1 tsp cayenne
18. 1 TBS Magic Dust*
19. 1 TBS Black pepper
20. 1 teaspoon Tony Chachere's Creole Seasoning
21. 1 tsp salt

 

Melt butter over high heat. Add flour and make a blonde roux.

Add onion bell pepper, mushrooms, garlic and half the shrimp.

Add the seasonings. Cook for 2 minutes. Deglaze the pan with wine and reduce.

Add the oyster liquor and reduce.

Add oysters and the rest of the shrimp. Add the cream

Add Panko to the desired thickness.

Remove from the heat and stir in Parmesan.

Stuff the oyster shells, adding little Panko and  Parmesan to the tops.

Bake for 10 minutes at 400 degrees F. Turn on the broiler to brown the tops a bit.

* Find the recipe for Magic Dust here.

 

Relatively speaking, these are so easy and sooo good.

 

 

Shrimp Curry

This is from Raghavan Iyer's 660 Curries. This curry is child's play to make and it is absolutely delicious. You can use  shrimp that have been peeled and deveined for ease of preparation

Prawns with Onions in a Peanut-Coconut Spiced Curry

TOPRAY THI KOLUMBI

(serves 4)

1. 1 pound large shrimp (16 to 20 per pound), peeled and deveined but tails left on
2. 1 teaspoon coarse kosher or sea salt
3. 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
4. 2 tablespoons peanut oil
5. 1/2 cup finely chopped red onion
6. 2 teaspoons Maharashtrian garam masala
7. 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh curry leaves

Place the shrimp in a medium-size bowl, and sprinkle them with the salt and turmeric. Toss to coat them with the spices. Refrigerate, covered, for 15 to 30 minutes, to allow the shellfish to absorb the flavor and color of the spices.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir-fry until it is light brown around the edges, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add the shrimp, arranging them in a single layer in the skillet. Sear on each side to seal in the flavors, about 1 minute per side. Add 1/4 cup water and the garam masala, and stir once or twice to deglaze the skillet, releasing any browned bits of onion. Bring to a boil. Then continue to simmer vigorously, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened slightly and the shrimp are salmon-orange and tender, 3 to 5 minutes.

Stir in the curry leaves and serve.

 

MAHARASHTRIAN GARAM MASALA

(makes about cup)

1. 1/4 cup raw peanuts (without the skin)
2. 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds
3. 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
4. 1 teaspoon cumin seed
5. 8 to 10 dried red Thai or cayenne chiles, to taste, stems removed
6. 1/4 teaspoon nutmegs shavings
7. 2 to 3 blades mace
8. 1/4 cup shredded dried unsweetened coconut

Preheat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add all the ingredients except the coconut, and toast, shaking the skillet every few seconds, until the peanuts ( in spots) and sesame seeds turn honey brown, the corainder and cumin seeds turn reddish brown and the chiles blacken slightly and smell pungent, 3 to 4 minutes. The chiles' aroma will be masked by the sweet-smelling nutmeg and mace.

Immediately transfer the nutty-smelling spices to a plate to cool.(The longer they sit in the hot skillet, the more likely it is that they will burn, making them bitter and unpalatable.) Return the skillet to the heat and toast the coconut for about 15 seconds; it will immediately start to turn almond-brown. Add the coconut to the pile of toasted peanuts and spices.

Once it is cool to the touch, place half the mixture in a spice grinder or coffee grinder, and grind until the texture resembles that of finely ground black pepper. (If you don't allow the spices to cool, the ground blend will acquire unwanted moisture from the heat, making the final blend slightly "cakey.") Transfer this to a small bowl. Repeat with the remaining batch. Thoroughly combine the two ground batches. The aroma of the light reddish-brown blend will be sweet and complex, very different from that of the pre-toasted and post-toasted whole spices.

Store in a tightly sealed container, away from excess light, heat and humidity for up to 2 months.

This was served over rice with Deep-Fried Cauliflower with Chile and Tomatoes. (Click here for the recipe.)

Soba Noodles with Asian Clam Sauce

Back home , but still loving those Asian tastes that were so satisifying in San Francisco. Soba noodles are made with buckwheat and are much lighter than their Italian cousins. The Japanese customarily eat them cold, but they are delicious hot. If you have leftovers, the noodles are great the next day served cold as part of a salad. This recipe is the creation of Sara Moulton and it is another easy-to-prepare weeknight supper.

SOBA NOODLES WITH ASIAN CLAM SAUCE

(serves 4)

1. 3 pounds littleneck clams
2. 4 medium scallions
3. one 1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger
4. 8 ounces soba noodles
5. 1 pound bok choy or napa cabbage
6. 1/4 cup fresh cilantro sprigs
7. 1/4 cup vegetable oil
8. 2 garlic cloves
9. 1/3 cup dry white wine
10. Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a very large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Scrub the clams, discarding any that won't close.

Trim and chop both the white and green parts of the scallions, keeping them separate. Peel and Microplane grate the ginger (about 1 1/2 teaspoons).

When the water has come to a boil, add the noodles and cook following the package directions. Drain and rinse well;set aside.

Meanwhile, trim and thinly slice the bok choy (4 generous cups). Chop the cilantro (about 2 tablespoons).

Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped white parts of the scallions and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Add the ginger and press the garlic (about 2 teaspoons) into the pan; cook for 1 minute more.

Add the clams and white wine to the pan; turn the heat up to high.Cover the pan and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the clams open; transfer the clams to a bowl as they open. Discard any clams that won't open after 6 to 8 minutes.

Add the bok choy to the saucepan; cover the pan and steam for 2 minutes or until the bok choy has wilted. Add the noodles, clams in their shells, chopped green parts of the scallions, the cilantro, and salt and pepper to taste; cook just until hot. Serve in 4 pasta bowls.

Seafood Casserole

Whenever I'm in Boston, which isn't nearly often enough, one of the first places I look for is the nearest Legal Sea Foods Restaurant.They know how to cook the gracious bounty God has provided from the riches of the sea to perfection. This recipe is their take on a perennial New England favorite. We served it to company on New Year's Day and I can't remember the last time I received such rave reviews for my labors in the kitchen. You,too, can have a lot of new best friends when you make this dish for your invitees.

SEAFOOD CASSEROLE A LA LEGAL SEA FOODS

 

SEAFOOD CASSEROLE

(serves 4)

1. 1 tablespoon butter
2. 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour
3. 2/3 cup fish stock or bottled clam juice
4. 2 tablespoons heavy cream
5. 1 pound shrimp, peeled
6. 1/2 pound sea scallops, halved
7. 1/2 pound haddock or cod, cut into 1-inch pieces
8. 6 to 8 ounces lobster meat, cut into serving pieces
9. 1/3 cup freshly grated Monterey Jack cheese
10. 1/2 cup Cracker Crumb Mixture

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

In a small nonreactive saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the flour, Return pan to the stove and cook for 2 minute over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until the flour is cooked through. Remove from the heat, and pour in the fish stock. Return the pan to the stove and cook over moderate heat, whisking constantly for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the mixture forms a light sauce. Stir in the cream and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce is the thickness you prefer. (This is a light thin sauce, designed to baste the fish as it bakes.) Set the mixture aside.

Place the shrimp, scallops, and haddock in a buttered baking dish just large enough to hold them. Pour over the sauce. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven, tilt, baste with the cooking juices, and add the lobster. Sprinkle with the cheese, then top with the Cracker Crumb Mixture. Return the dish to the oven and bake for 5 to 8 minutes longer, or until the crumbs are lightly browned.

VARIATION

With Garlic and Sherry

Omit the sauce. Toss the seafood with 2 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon garlic, and 1 to 2 tablespoons dry shery. Proceed as above.

 

CRACKER CRUMB MIXTURE

(Makes about 2 cups)

1. 1/4 pound oyster crackers or saltines
2. 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
3. 1/2 cup melted butter
4. 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
5. 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves

Whirl the crackers in a food processor or blender until they are evenly ground but retain some texture. Saute the onion until softened in 1 tablespoon of the butter, and then add to the crumb mixture in a bowl along with the remaining butter, parsley and thyme. Mix thoroughly. If the mixture hardens in the refrigerator, place it in a microwave oven for 5 to 10 seconds before using.

This will keep for weeks in the refrigerator.