Bear Cuisine

Another Italian Side

Thanksgiving is such a tradition-laden holiday, you really don't want to mess with your family's expectations too much. But sometimes one does wish for just a bit of variation on the traditional tastes. Christine Hickman provided a lovely riff on green beans in her class "Everything But the Turkey." These green beans were yummy.  Friends and family won't feel grumpy if you include these as part of your Thanksgiving Day feast.

Green Beans with Lemon, Garlic and Parmigiano Gremolata

GREEN BEANS WITH LEMON, GARLIC AND PARMIGIANO GREMOLATA

1. Extra-virgin olive oil
2. 3 pounds green beans, stem ends trimmed
3. Salt and fresly-ground black pepper
4. 1 cup water

 

1. 5 large garlic cloves,crushed
2. 1/3 cup water
3. Shredded zest of 2 large lemons
4. 1 tightly packed cup Italian parsley leaves
5. Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
6. 1 1/2 cups coarsely-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Lightly film the bottom of 2 straight-sided 12-inch saute pans with oil. heat them over medim-high heat. Add the beans and generous sprinklings of salt and pepper, and saute for 2 minutes, or until the beans begin to brown. Add 1/2 cup of water to each pan and immediately cover it.

Turn the heat to medium-low. Cook the beans for 15 to 20 minutes, checking them often for burning and adding a little water if necessary. You want the beans very tender.

As the beans cook, make the gremolata. Put the garlic and 1/3 cup water in a small saucepan and simmer 1 to 2 minutes. Then, in a food processor, mince together the garlic (with its' liquid), lemon zest and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste.

When the beans sre tender, uncover them, cook off any liquid in the pan and turn them into a serving bowl. Toss the beans with the gremolata and the grated cheese.

Serves 10 to 14 as part of a large meal

Serve at room temperature. They will hold at room temperature about 2 hours. After that, chill them.

Everything But The Turkey

"Everything But the Turkey" was the title of Christine Hickman's latest offering. We learned how to make some truly wonderful side dishes that pair well with turkey. These recipes will definitely go into my keeper file for both the present and the future.

Christine at her ebullient best

Butternut Squash and Pear Soup with Chickpea Fries for Garnish

I love this soup. The pear adds a delicate sweetness to the earthy squash. A cinch to make and it freezes well (minus the cream). When I made it at home, I found that it didn't need any cream at all.This is the perfect soup to start your Thanksgiving dinner. It is light enough so that your guests won't feel full before they start to chow down on turkey, stuffing and all the other things that will fill your table.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND PEAR SOUP

(serves 4 to 6)

1. 4 TBSP butter
2. 2 medium onions, diced
3. 1 medium buttnernut squash, peeled, seeded and cut ito 1-inch pieces
4. 4 pears, peeled and chopped into roughly 1-inch pices
5. 1 quart (or enough to cover) low-sodium chicken stock
6. 1 sprig rosemary
7. Heavy cream (optional)
8. Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a four-quart saucepan melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the choppsed onions and cook until they turn translucent. Do not brown.

Add the squash and pear and cook until they begin to soften.

Pour in the stock, enough to cover the solids.

Add the sprig of rosemary, bring to a simmer ad cook util squash is fork tender, 20-25 minutes.

Remove the rosemary. Puree with an immersion blender, or in batches in a food processor.

Add a touch of cream (1/4 to 1/2 cup) if desired, being careful not overpower the flavors of the soup.

Season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

 

CHICKPEA FRIES WITH SAGE & PARMESAN

(serves 12)

1. Course salt and freshly ground pepper
2. Oil for frying
3. 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
4. 2 3/4 cups milk
5. 1 1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter
6. 1 cup chickpea flour
7. 2 tablespoons finely chopped sage
8. 1 small garlic clove, minced

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, butter and garlic and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderately low and gradually whisk in the chickpea flour until smooth. Stir constantly with a rubber spatula until the mixture thickens, about 2 minutes. Season with salt ad pepper.

Scrape the mixture into a nonstick 9-by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet or baking dish that has been lightly sprayed with vegetable oil. Spread into a 1/4-inch layer. Cover with parchment peper and refrigerate until firm, 2 to 3 hours.

Pour an inch of oil (not olive) into a wide skillet and heat it to 350 degrees or until a piece of bread bubbles rapidly when added to the hot oil. Meanwhile, cut the chickpea mixture into 2-inch squares. Fry the squares in batches until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Transfer the squares to a rack lined with paper towels to drain, then keep them warm in a low oven while you fry the rest.

In a bowl, mix the sage and Parmesan cheese. Toss the fries in the cheese and sage mixture util coated.

Serve warm.

This recipe can be prepared through the fying step. Refrigerate overnight. Recrisp the fries in a 350 degree oven. Toss with the sage and parmesan before serving.

 

 

A Bit on the Side

Chef Jonathan Perno of Los Poblanos recently taught a "Fall Harvest Cooking Class. There were several recipes that would make ideal sides for a Thanksgiving feast. You might want to consider one or more of them for your table.

Chef Jonathan Perno

Apple and Green Chile Relish is a New Mexico-inspired condiment and it provides just the right touch of spice for turkey or a roasted pork loin.

APPLE AND GREEN CHILE RELISH

(serves 4)

1. 10-12 cooking Apples, peeled and cut into quarters and chopped
   
2. 8 shallots, peeled and medium diced
3. 2 bay leaves
4. 1/4 cup sugar
5. 1/8 cup vinegar
6. 1/4 cup chopped green chile
7. 2 TBSP grainy mustard
8. 1 TBSP chopped Rosemary
9. salt to taste
10. Pepper to taste

In a large saute pan heat the oil, then shallots, bay leaf and add a pinch of salt.Cook for about 3-5 minutes o high heat.

Then add apples, lightly season with salt and cook for about 3-5 minutes longer. Next, add the vinegar and sugar, bring to a boil, and let simmer for about 15-20 minutes or to desired consistency.

Allow to cool, then stir in chile,blackpepper, rosemary and a splash more vinegar.

Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Winter Squash and Mixed Mushroom Gratin

WINTER SQUASH AND MIXED MUSHROOM GRATIN

(serves)

1. 2 1/2 pounds winter squash,peeled, seeded and diced
2. 1 pound mixed Mushrooms,trimmed*
3. 2 teaspoons minced garlic
4. 2 TBSP fresh sage, chiffonade
5. 1/2 cup toasted pecans (chopped and use for garnish)
6. Olive oil for cooking mushrooms
7. salt to taste
8. pepper to taste

*we used Trumpet Royales, shitakis, and Hen of the Woods mushrooms

 

Custard Mixture

1. 2 cups heavy cream
2. 4 large whole eggs
3. 1/4 of a nutmeg bean, grated
4. 1/4 pecorino cheese (grated)

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees F.

Liberally butter a  9 x13 casserole dish.

In a large saute pan, heat the oil on high until it is smoking, then add musrooms to the pan, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook until they begin to caramelize.

Next add garlic and cook for about 1-2 minutes longer.(Clear a space in the pan, add oil then add the garlic to that spot. After it cooks for a few seconds,mix into the mushrooms.)

Remove from the pan and allow to cool.

Add the sage to the cooled mushrooms. Then combine the mushrooms with the squash. put the mushroom mixture into the casserole and add the cheese and cream custard mixture in parts so that the custard is evenly distributed in the dish.

Place in the oven for about 30 minutes and then top with the toasted pecans. Cook for another 5 minutes, remove from the oven and let it rest for about 5-10 minutes before serving.

You can make this ahead and serve it at room temperature.

The custard in this dish is wonderfully light and the earthy taste of the mushrooms and the winter squash will perfectly complement your turkey.

 

 

Thanksgiving Sides

Thanksgiving dinner is always a challenge. Not so much because of work required to put it together. It's all the expectations and memories that folks have around this holiday. There are always food memories. For most people they are pleasant associations, but for some holiday family meals are anything but festive. So, the cook is challenged in at least two ways--honoring the traditions that are dear to your guests and creating a meal that will not evoke unpleasant memories for the holiday-fearers. It's a tricky passage to negotiate.

What to serve with the turkey is usually where the difficulties arise. "It's not thanksgiving without Green Bean Casserole"( or mashed potatoes or cornbread dressing or..... you can fill in the blank with your favorite). Or "I can't stand brussels sprouts or creamed onions "( or.... fill in the blank with your most-loathed vegetable.) I think this is one reason that side dishes tend to proliferate at this meal. Cooks, by their very nature, want to please and they try to have something for everyone.

This year we had one of our tried and true favorites (Fennel Gratin) and a new dish (Caramelized Brussels Sprouts). I was worried about the brussels sprouts, but everyone loved them. Book mark these for next year's menu. You won't be sorry.

FENNEL GRATIN

(serves 6 to 8)

• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 6 fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut vertically into 1/4"-thick slices
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 cups thinly sliced yellow onions (about 3/4 pound)
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 1/2 cups finely grated Swiss cheese

Butter a 6"x9" gratin dish.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Bring 3 quarts of water, the lemon juice and a pinch of salt and pepper to a boil in a large nonreative saucepan. Lower the heat to medium and add the fennel slices. Blanch the fennel for 8 minutes or until just tender. Use care not to break the slices. Drain. Places the slices on paper towels to absorb any excess liquid.

Heat the butter in a large heavy-bottomed saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and gently saute them, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place the onions in the bottom of the gratin dish.

Bring the cream to a simmer in a medium saucepan and season it with salt and pepper. While it is heating pick through the blanched fennel slices and reserve the nicest of the tulip-shaped ones for the top layer of the gratin. Remove and discard the cores from the remaining slices. Roughly chop the remaining slices and distribute them over the onions. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the chopped fennel. Neatly place the reserved tulip-shaped slices of fennel on top of the cheese and pour the hot cream over them. Top with the remaining cheese.

Bake the gratin in the preheated oven for about 55 minutes or until the fennel is tender and the top is nicely browned. Pay attention because this dish can quickly overbrown.

You can make this in the morning and cook later.

(From Louis Osteen)

CARAMELIZED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH SHERRY-DIJON VINAIGRETTE

(serves 4 to 6)

1. Kosher Salt
2. 2 pounds Brussels sprouts, halved
3. 8 ounces smoked bacon, cut into 1" pieces
4. 1 medium yellow onion, julienned
5. 2 tablespoons butter
6. 2 green apples, peeled and sliced
7. 3 fresh thyme sprigs
8. Freshly ground black pepper
9. Sherry-Dijon Vinaigrette

Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Salt the water so it tastes like seawater. Separately, create an ice bath by filling a large bowl or casserole dish with equal amounts of cold water and ice.

Add the brussels sprouts to the boiling water. Cook until tender, but not too long or they will lose their bright green color. Remove the sprouts from the water and shock them in the ice bath. Leave the brussels sprouts in the ice bath until they are cool, then remove them from the ice bath and reserve for later use.

In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, add the bacon pieces and cook until the fat renders and the bacon crisps, about 7 minutes. Add the onions to the pan and cook until softened, another 5 minutes. Add the butter, allow it to melt and then add the apple slices and thyme sprigs. Toss to coat, cooking another minute or 2. Add the blanched brussels sprouts. Season with salt and pepper, and cook until the sprouts are golden brown, another 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the thyme sprigs and discard. Drizzle half the vinaigrette onto the sprouts and toss. Serve the remaining vinaigreet alongside the sprouts.

Sherry-Dijon Vinaigrette

1. 8 1/2 ounces vegetable oil
2. 6 ounces extra-virgin olive oil
3. 3 1/2 ounces sherry vinegar
4. 2 tablespoons dijon mustard
5. Salt and freshly ground pepper

Put all the ingredients, except salt and pepper, in the blender and mix well.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

(from the Voltaggio Brothers)

A Southwestern Taste

Poblanos are among my favorite chiles. They have a distinctive flavor and are only rarely too hot for those who can't take  much heat.Almost every year, we buy a bushel at the Santa Fe Farmer's Market and have them roasted. When I put them in the freezer, I feel rich. It's as good as having money in the bank.

Combine their taste with Cilantro and you have a winning combination. David Rosengarten developed a recipe for a Cilantro-Poblano Cream Sauce that has been our Thanksgiving table for several years now. It freezes well and we'll be having some of it tonight on our pork chops.

CILANTRO-POBLANO CREAM SAUCE

1. 1/2 pound (2 sticks) plua 2 tablespoons unsalted butter (18 tablespoons altogether)
2. 3 cups coarsely chopped leeks ( 2 large leeks)
3. 3 cups coarsely chopped celery
4. 12 poblano chiles, seeded and coarsely chopped (about 3 pounds)
5. 3 cups cilantro roots and stems, coarsely chopped plus 1/4 cup finely minced cilantro leaves
6. 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour
7. 12 cups chicken stock
8. Pinch of nutmeg
9. Tabasco green pepper sauce (optional)

 

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottmed pan over medium-low heat. Add the chopped leeks and celery. Saute for 5 minutes. Add the poblanos and the chopped cilantro roots and sems. Saute for 5 minutes. Add the flour, stirring well to coat the vegetables If the pot seems dry, add a little more butter. Saute the roux for 2 minutes.

Add the chicken stock, stirring vigorously to blend well. Raise heat, bring the mixture to a boil, then let it simmer for 30 minutes. The sauce should be of a medium-thick consistency.

Strain the solids out of the stock and reserve. Return the sauce to the saucepan. Finely mince some of the solids until you have 3/4 of a cup. Return these to the sauce and added the minced cilantro leaves. Stir to blend. Add the nutmeg and if desired, a little Tabasco green pepper sauce. Taste for seasoning and serve.

 

You can cut the recipe in half if you don't want to make this much.